Starting the day with no alarm...

Sorry for the delay in posting - the WiFi at the B&B has been spotty the past few days.  The following post is for Friday, 8/15:

Today is the first day of my trip that I haven't needed to set the alarm - no flight, no tour, nothing, so was hopeful for a wonderful night's rest.  I've yet to have an uninterrupted night during my trip.  I usually sleep through the night without any interruption, but since on my trip I've worried about missing an early flight, hearing unusual noises and other reasons.  Last night, I was awakened several times by the front door buzzer - the front door is always locked and guests do not have a key.  You ring a buzzer which sounds throughout the entire B&B.  It is rather annoying...and considering that folks were going out to clubs at 1 AM, returning at 2 - 5 AM, there were several noises throughout the night - the buzzer, hard footsteps on the stairs, doors shutting, talking, etc.  Luckily it was rather quite by 5 AM and I slept in until around 9:30.

I realized that I really need to do laundry, but can't force myself to do it just yet - was too busy in Mendoza and the sink a the current B&B is too small.  Bridget - our room in Paris may be filled with my drying laundry for the first day!

After getting ready I headed down for a rather sparse breakfast.  Toast, juice and coffee.  I guess I'll have the toast.

I set my plan for the day and headed out.  First to explore the street that my B&B is on - Defensa.  It was a lovely walk - reminded me of some of the antique-filled streets of New Orleans - lots of antique stores, a few newer souvenir shops, a few cafes and at least two park squares.  I ended up in Plaza de Mayo again and took more pictures of the Casa Rosana - but the lighting was still bad.  From Plaza de Mayo, I walked Calle Florida for about 10 blocks.  I had seen postcards about this street and thought I should see it.  It was sensory overload.  I had heard from other visitors in Mendoza that there was a black-market in Buenos Aires for exchanging US Dollars and British Pounds, getting a much better exchange rate.  I had only brought about $100 US, so not worth the effort.  Calle Florida was ground zero for the Black Market.  Every 15-20 feet someone was saying "Cambrio".  The exchange rates they offered were quite good - around 12 pesos per $1US; while the bank exchange rate is about 8.2 pesos per $1US.

From Calle Florida I headed towards Teatro Centro - the very large Opera House that was built from 1888 - 1908 in a grand European style.  It has been sited by several famous Opera singers as having "perfect acoustics".  I arrived at 12:50 and lucked out that an English tour was beginning at 1:00 PM.  The guide had a very strange accent that I could never place, but one that I found quite intriguing and enjoyable.

The Opera House was incredible.  They were doing lightening maintenance in the main auditorium, so my pictures from there were not great.  By the end of the tour, the guide mentioned that there were several events occurring over the next week.  At the end of the tour, I headed to the box office and bought a seat for the Ballet on Saturday night - it is a very special International event with several of the principals visiting from Europe.

I've been so intrigued with lamp posts in Buenos Aires, this one is at Teatro Colon:

After the Opera House, I headed to the Palermo neighborhood.  This area had been recommended by several folks.  It was not walking distance, so was time to try my first attempt at the subway in Buenos Aires.  Luckily the B&B had given me a Subway card so that I could just add money to it.  I expected (actually hoped for) a machine, but no such luck - only a teller booth.  I held up the card in one hand and 15 pesos in the other hand.  Our respective hand signals were enough and within about 30 seconds I had added money to the card.  I stood back to watch a few passengers entering the turn-stall to see how to use the card.  Trains in both directions were leaving as I descended the steps, which was actually good so that I wasn't rushed in trying to figure out which track and train I needed.

As the train approached it was easy to see that it was packed.  I quickly rearranged my bag to my stomach and did not take my hand out of my front pocket that had my wallet.  I needed to ride about 7 stops.  There was a singer on my train car, and luckily he was about 50 feet away, so I didn't get the brunt of his various renditions, nor his tip expectations.

Finally arrived at my stop - the Plaza Italia.  Another wonderful, small park with an impressive statue:  

From here I walked due North into the Palermo neighborhood.  And it certainly was a neighborhood.  Lots of small shops, a grocery on almost every corner and many residential buildings.  The walk was much further than I had expected.  Besides exploring the area, I was heading to a particular place for lunch - a meat-focused restaurant that had been recommended to me (thanks Audra!).  I arrived at the lunch place around 3:15 and it was quite popular - a 20 min wait.  I was also surprised that many folks were having lunch after 3 PM...but I guess if you don't have dinner until 11 PM.  I was glad that I waited - La Cabrera was fantastic.  It was listed as one of the top 50 restaurants in all of Latin America.  The portions were enormous and I did a very impressive job of eating most of it.

I had a dry aged strip steak with a side of papas fritas.  I wasn't aware that with the steak you also got a side of mashed potatoes, mashed sweet potatoes, apple sauce, small onions marinaded in red wine, creamed spinach, a huge bread basket and then 3 small cups of various salads...oh and a bearnaise sauce!

The lunch was so indulgent and filling.  I decided to walk more to work some of it off, plus I had to make my way back to the subway.  I took different streets back south towards the subway to see different things.

I typically don't post pictures of food, but this was ridiculous for one person...

I took the subway to Plaza de Mayo.  I got several shots of the various buildings at night - many of them illuminated with brightly colored lights - pink, green, blue.  Casa Rosada in particular was awash in hot pink.

I decided to walk Defensa street back to the B&B to see how it changed between day and night.  Unfortunately many of the wonderful antique stores were closed with graffiti-decorated metal doors over the windows.  Most the cafes were mostly silent at 8 PM - awaiting their rush at 10 PM or later.  The 12 blocks back was somewhat quiet.

The wine bar from last night was so quaint, plus so close, that I've decided to return tonight.  Luckily most of the tapas menu at the wine bar had changed - tonight I choose a split pea soup with croutons and a chirizzo with honey tart...along with two glasses of the Alamos Malbec.