Hello Buenos Aires

Journal - 081414

Today I traveled from Mendoza to Buenos Aires.  More fun and unexpected airline antics with Aerolinas Argentinas.

It was dark the entire ride to the airport and very little traffic.  When I arrived, I shopped the two gift shops to find postcards.  After purchasing a few post cards, I went to check in.  They had a dedicated Sky Priority line, but that didn't seem to matter at all.  There were 4 agents working.  The only one working the Sky Priority line was working with one couple who proceeded to pull out Saran wrap to cover a small box they were checking as luggage.  It was quite the effort as they took turns holding the box and the other one wrapping it.  Finally I got to check in.  The agent spoke no English and I noticed that none of the announcements were repeated in English.  My bag was only 29 kg - either I've used up .7 kg of stuff, or their scale was a little off.

It was very unclear when to go thru security.  I noticed that no one else checking for the flight was going thru security - they were all waiting in the main area of the airport.  The main agent made an announcement and folks immediately got up and started to form a line at security.  I quickly followed suit.  However, then I noticed that a few folks just went straight to the security entrance.  I went to the counter to ask what they announced and got nowhere.  I just decided to to thru security.  It was a complete non-event.  I carried through a full bottle of wine; didn't have to take off my shoes; didn't remove any electronics from my bag, etc.  The metal detector beeped as I went through and the guard just motioned me on thru.  Very secure!

The boarding area was just that - nothing else in sight.  More announcements and more folks lining up.  The same box-wrapping couple, charged ahead and went thru, so I thought they must have said something about club economy or sky priority.  I was stopped around the corner, saying we weren't boarding yet.  Finally the announcement for boarding...it is for everyone!  No Sky Priority or anything.  I pretty much became the obnoxious American and jumped the line.  

After boarding, the flight was pretty uneventful.  No awful boxed meal this time - it was a full tray with a great croissant with ham and cheese, a yogurt, muffin and something else that I couldn't identify.  

We arrived in Buenos Aires and again parked on the tarmac and shuttled on a bus to the terminal.  No customs this time since it was a domestic flight.  The bags took a very long time.  The flight was never posted and luckily I recognized several other folks from the flight were waiting, so I knew I wasn't in the wrong place.  Finally someone asked in Spanish where the bags were going to be delivered.  Finally they arrived and I was on my way.  The taxi stand was easy to find, one was waiting and I showed the older female driver the B&B address.  She had to look at it numerous times.  She kept asking me if I was from San Pao even after I told her 3 times I was from the US.  She said I looked Brazilan!

The Fodor's guide book said that a taxi to the San Telmo area would be about 10-15 pesos, which seemed very low...and it was.  Must have been a misprint, since the flad drop on the taxi was 12 pesos.  The actual amount was 200 pesos.  The door of the B&B was locked and I had to press the buzzer.  After a second buzz, someone said hello and buzzed open the door.  Upon opening the door, I struggled to get my bag thru it since the door was so narrow.  Then, an enormous staircase lay ahead of me.  It was the equivalent of three flights of steps, staight up with no landings along the way.  I carried both the big bag and my backpack.  By the top, I was panting and breathing quite heavily.

Javier greeted me and showed me to the living room area to sit down and fill out a few forms.  Breakfast was still being served at 11 AM.  I met a few other guests who were staying at the B&B.  

My room was another flight of stairs up and Javier took charge of my bag.  I wasn't going to disagree.

The room is pretty bare-bones - queen size bed, open closets, a small table and a small bath room.  It is quite a difference from the Sheraton suite.

I got settled, unpacked a few things and reviewed the area map that Javier had given me.  

I left the B&B and decided I would just walk the entire day.  I headed towards the Plaza de Mayo.  The architecture along the way was incredible.  I took over 50 pictures of various buildings.  

When I reached the Plaza, it was quite lovely.  The Casa Rosada, Catedral Metropolitana, Cabildo Nacional and National Bank of Argentina.

This is the Cabildo Nacional:

Below is the Casa Rosada - this is where Eva Peron rallied the working class.  Also where Madonna sang her filmed rendition of "Don't Cry for Me Argentina":

This is the Catedral Metropolitan:

This is the National Bank of Argentina:

Here I am in the Plaza de Mayo - the protesters are just off to the left out of view.

As I approached I noticed many barricades, police in full bullet-proof gear and then finally a huge group of protesters.  This is the exactly the situation that all the guide books say to avoid.  I merely skirted the periphery to take a few pictures, but unfortunately none of them turned out so great.

From the Plaza I walked back on Avenida De Mayo, heading toward the Congreso de la Nacion:

Near Congreso de la Nacion, there is also a replica of Rodin's "The Thinker":

Around 4:00, I stopped for a quick snack - I had not eaten anything since breakfast.  I got two empanadas - one with meat, one with chicken and a bottle of water.  The server told me that empanadas would take 15 min since they had to be made fresh...perfect!  The cafe was at the corner of Avenida De Mayo and Avenida 9 De Julio, so I watched about 16 lanes of traffic criss-crossing...somewhat organized chaos.

More architecture pics from the afternoon walk:

Following my afternoon snack, I started the track back to the B&B, along Avenida 9 De Julio.  It was about 5:30 by then, so the middle of rush hour and many folks walking home.  It was very energizing and you could really feel the pulse of the city...horns honking, street vendors, hustle and bustle of a huge city, but still looking in cafes and seeing folks enjoying a late afternoon coffee and pastry.

As I glanced up along my walk, I was greeted by Evita herself!

Back at the B&B, I'm relaxing with a glass of wine, writing in my journal and contemplating plans for tonight.  Most restaurants don't open for dinner until 8 PM or later, plus I had an early morning, so not the best combination.  I suppose this is when I'm supposed to be napping to continue partying until 3 AM, but that doesn't seem to be my speed these days.