Today we decided that we would sleep in late - we had been up relatively early all previous days. Our only plans were to meet some of Bridget's friends later in the afternoon in the Le Marais area.
After leaving the hotel we started our day with take-out from Paul - a chocolate croissant for both of us.
We had noticed a Post Office about 2 blocks from our hotel and I wanted to send some guide books from South America as well as souvenirs back home. From Paul, we headed towards the Post Office and encountered the most helpful postal employees ever - very friendly, nice and loving their jobs. USPS could take many tips on the customer service here. The boxes to the USA were set euro amounts for specific weight amounts. I got a box that allowed up to 5 kilograms for 43 euros...my stuff was just under 3 kilograms - wish I had brought more! A bit pricey, but glad to get the unneeded things out of my suitcase and backpack.
From the Post Office we headed to the metro and on to the Saint Paul stop which is the middle of Le Marais area.
When we exited I looked at a map to determine the direction and Bridget talked to a group of 3 police officers for the same directions. My suggestion based on the map was the complete opposite of the police officers, so we took their advice as we assumed they knew the area better.
The neighborhood was much less touristy than the other areas of Paris that we had visited. It certainly seemed that most folks were Parisians out and about for a weekend day, doing their errands and enjoying the sunny day.
We stopped in a few shops along the way, browsing and enjoying store names like the one below:
In a few more blocks we determined that the police had sent us in the wrong direction - we were at a metro stop in the opposite direction of where we wanted to go. We turned around and headed in the other direction. We found a wonderful kitchen and home store and ended up both purchasing numerous items - I got a cheese knife made in France - the brand with the small silver fly on the side of the handle - several high-end steak houses in the US use this brand as their steak knives; a set of cloth napkins in a very pale purple shade and finally a gift (so won't mention the details!).
More pictures of our stroll through the Le Marais area:
There have been so many fantastic doors throughout Paris:
With our leisurely strolling, we only had about 45 minutes before meeting Bridget's friends and still needed to eat lunch. We found a small cafe (they're pretty much everywhere). I finally had my first Croque Monsieur with frites.
Our experience at all restaurants in Paris has been very similar - you are seated and then wait and wait and then wait some more. There may or may not be menus on the table. When the server arrives they will either bring a menu or ask for your drink order. It is about 10-15 minutes of sitting by this point. Assuming we already have the menus like we did today, then the drinks take another 10+ minutes to arrive. When the drinks arrive you may or may not be able to order food. We indicated that we only had 45 minutes to eat in hopes of speeding the process along. Surprisingly after ordering food, it arrives relatively quickly. Getting the check after eating is another adventure - you're expected to look at the dessert menu, then get coffee (aka a cafe) or tea, after all of this is complete and sitting for much longer, then the check is delivered, but usually only after asking. Paying the bill is then another 10-15 minute process. Most meals have been no less than 1.5 - 2 hours without getting a dessert or coffee. I enjoy a leisurely meal, probably more than most Americans, but I hate the waiting and inattentive service staff. Bring we water and wine within a few minutes of sitting down and I'm content. As much as I've complained about service staff in the USA at times, I am now appreciating their efficiency, attentiveness and taking cues from diners...I will no longer begrudge paying a 20% tip...a small price to pay for the type of service that I've learned to expect.
Surprisingly we were complete with lunch in a VERY short 50 minutes and headed to the designated meeting point in Place des Vosges - the oldest square in Paris, which is anchored by the Masion de Victor Hugo.
We met Bridget's friends - Francois and Alex and their 10-month old baby. As we criss-crossed Le Marais area, Francios and I talked about numerous topics and minded to the baby while Bridget and Alex caught up and stopped in various jewelry and clothing stores. One of the most interesting topics was the Frenchman's perception of Americans. In the US I feel like we think the French hate us - we're bossy, demanding, refuse to learn French - and that any visit to France, Americans are faced with rude, indifferent Frenchmen. Our experience has been the complete opposite - every Parisian has been pleasant, helpful and happy that Americans are experiencing their country. They have mostly spoken English, with the vast majority speaking English quite fluently. Francois felt that the US media has greatly misrepresented the French people and their opinions of Americans. He said that the French greatly admire the US - their drive, their ambition, their success. He said that France still remembers how the US helped them in WWI and WWII and that they would not be where they are today without the help that the US provided.
We took a break from our strolling for some Moroccan tea that was very sweet, minty and a bit warmer than luke warm as well as several sweet Moroccan desserts.
Three hours after meeting we said our goodbyes and headed in our opposite directions.
Bridget and I decided to take in a twilight river tour on the Sierne. We tried to take the metro back to the Eiffel Tower area from where many of the river tours leave. Two stops before our needed stop, the train emptied, there were announcements in French and more people got on just looking at us. We stayed in place knowing we had two more stops. A new rider kept saying something in French that seemed to indicate that the train had ended, we just smiled and nodded. Finally a train guard got on and told us the train was done and was headed back in the opposite direction. We finally figured out by a sign in the terminal that the next 7 stops were closed due to construction. Luckily another metro employee explained how we could get to the Eiffel Tower.
We ended up approaching the Tower from the opposite direction as we had on our previous visit - so wonderful to get a different perspective. This side had many fountains and a water show rather than vast green space. Some of the pictures were very cool of the Tower through the water.
Found a willing "model" for a very artsy Black and White photo:
Onwards to the river tour. When we approached the line was very long - both to buy tickets and to board the boat. We missed the first boat as we were waiting in line to buy a ticket. However, another boat pulled up and the next group of folks started to line up. When we bought the ticket we pointed out "the boot" and the agent immediately radioed for a guard - we were ushered thru a special door, avoiding all queue lines. When boarding started, we were allowed on first - I told Bridget she need to grab hold of my arm and limp like it was her job. We got so many nasty looks from folks who had been waiting for quite a long time. I felt the slightest amount of guilt, but it is difficult for Bridget to maneuver within a crowd, so the special treatment was appreciated. We selected prime seats on the front row and avoided seething stares as others boarded.
Timing was perfect to see the "City of Lights" at night - it started at 9:20 PM and lasted exactly an hour. We rode from the Eiffel Tower to well past Notre Dame and then back. So many wonderful sights, great pictures and interesting history. Also of note was the guide - he gave initial instructions in 7 different languages - French, English, Spanish, German, Portuguese, Italian and Japanese. Later he would interrupt our recorded tour to point out something else (and to sell DVDs) and delivered those messages in at least 3-4 languages.
When the boat tour was over, many folks started forming a queue to exit, but the guide motioned for us to come to the side. He pushed back and blocked everyone else as we exited and then we were ushered by another guard through a separate door to the ultimate exit.
From here we grabbed a taxi and was heading back to the hotel when we decided we should have dinner, although it was about 10:45 PM. We selected Chez Andres which the concierge had recommended a few days earlier. We shared a delightful half bottle of Saint-Emillion. I had two appetizers - a pate and then an endive salad with Roquefort. The pate was different than any I have had in the US - was served in a small bread loaf type dish and appeared to have been slightly baked on top, but was served cold. Overall it was delicious. The Roquefort cheese on the endive salad was also amazing.
Following dinner we headed back to the hotel. A somewhat early start on Sunday as we head to Reims for Champagne tasting!
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