First Day in Rio - 080714

After the delay of my first flight from Minneapolis, the rest of the travel was like clock-work.  Enjoyed my layover of a few hours in Atlanta and had a chance to give a final call to my parents, Mamaw, Amy and Chris...as well as sending several text messages.  

The business class experience to Rio was fantastic - great meal selections, great service, wonderful lay-flat seats.  A pic while landing...

My passport and visa had been checked at least 4 times, so I didn't expect any issues at immigration.  Wait time at immigration was less than 5 min - much better than the folks who were filing in quickly behind me.  No questions, just scanned my passport and stamped it.  Didn't even take the form I had to fill out.  Funniest part of the immigration process - Non-Brazilians were referred to simply as "Foreigners".

The arranged car service was a great idea - connected easily and out of the airport in record time.  The drive to the inn was longer than I expected - lots of traffic.  I sat in the front seat and the driving was CRAZY.  

My room wasn't ready, so I decided to start my sight-seeing immediately.  Sergio, the manager, was very good about suggested a great route for the day to be able to see both Santa Teresa as well as the Centro area sights that I had mentioned to him.

I packed my messenger bag to head out, but Sergio saw me when I was leaving and heavily suggested that I not take a bag - saying it would make me a target.  So I greatly reduced my load - to only a camera, sunglasses and a few maps....all spread around to various pockets.

At the end of a tiring day, I was glad of the decision to leave the bag.  Lesson Learned - listen to the B&B manager, even if I don't like the advice.

From the B&B, I had memorized the route for the first few turns so that I wouldn't have to pull out a map.  I was stunned by the condition and appearance of the houses along my route - most were in need of significant repairs and almost seemed unlivable.  The B&B is in a more residential neighborhood, not in the center of things.  I was taking several side streets to get the main "drag" of Santa Teresa.  To my disappointment, most things were closed and it was already 11:45 AM.  A few art shops and one or two convenience stores were open for browsing.

The further I walked, I gained more confidence.  The sights also greatly improved, as of the water, Sugar Loaf, the local airport and many other breath-taking views started to appear.

I made my way to the first suggestion - Parque das Ruinas.  It was a mansion of a very wealthy woman who hosted fantastic parties.  The house could be seen for miles.  It was abandoned and falling apart and in 1997, the city gutted it, keeping the outside brick walls, but no windows, no interior walls, etc.  It offered incredible views, well above the tree tops.  There was a music video being shot on the plaza, so was fun to see that production.  After taking 360 degree pictures on 4 different levels, I decided to move along.

After the Parque das Ruinas, was a set of stairs that had been designed in the early 1980's - the riser of every step was many fantastic, very colorful tiles - Escadaria Selaron.  There were easily 250+ steps.  By the end of the stairs, it got very crowded, touristy and junky vendors.

I continued onwards into the Centro area.  There was certainly a buzz of folks - more local, business folks around for the day, out to lunch.  I easily found the Caerdral de Sao Sabastiao by the odd shape - a circular pyramid type shape that is quite unattractive from the outside.  I traversed through a rather large, tight parking lot and up many stairs to get into the Cathedral.  It was simply spectacular on the inside.  Stained glass was running the full height of the building in four separate sections.  It was essentially a church in-the-round, with the alter in the middle.

There was a photo display set up in one section showing many pictures of Pope Francis' visit to Rio several years ago.  It was a week+ long celebration for the city.  I get the feeling the city is on the verge of celebrating anything and everything.

After snapping many pictures, I decided to move on.  I was still trying to find Theatro Municipal and a few other churches.  I started criss-crossing the Centro area, referring to my map and still not finding the places that I wanted.  Ultimately I stumbled upon Theatro Municipal which was on the same square as the Biblioteca Nacional and Museu Nacional de Belas Artes - jack pot!

I quickly got a ticket for the next English tour at Theatro Municipal.  This building is an Opera house, built in a very European style in the early 1900's.  It was extensively renovated in 2008-2010, returning to its original grandeur.  I have not seen that much gold leaf since...well, maybe ever.  After getting my ticket, I searched for a lunch location - I had 45 minutes to kill before my tour and it was already 2:15.

After a quick lunch I returned to the Theatro Municipal courtyard to wait until my tour.  As I approached, this guy yells out "are you Americano?"  Without thinking, I said yes and sat down next to him.  After introductions, he became known as "Scott from Arkansas" to me.  Nice guy, but I was not really interested in the conversation he was initiating.  I wasn't pining for English just yet and had been enjoying my afternoon of tourist solitude.  I heard all about his business travels in Southern Brazil, his long layover, his bus ride into town and his ridiculous flight connections to get home...and I had yet to share one personal aspect about me.  He quickly declared that we needed to stick together on this tour, I only hope that I didn't make a sour face.

The tour with about 30 people started - all in Portuguese.  After the introductions, they asked who needed an English tour - 5 hands raised, including my new BFF, Scott from Arkansas.  The five of us were together for the next hour.  Sad that English was the smallest subsection - there were also break outs for Spanish, French and Italian.  Reminded me more that throughout the day, I had expected people to speak English to me although I was in their country.  Such a privileged attitude. Luckily, I've encountered very few folks who do not speak English, even if very broken. 

By the end of the tour, I was starting to hit a wall.  I had been walking/standing for about 6 hours and needed a break.  I did a quick browse thru the Biblioteca Nacional but skipped the Museu Nacional then headed back to the hotel.  

The B&B had left me a coupon for a coupon for a free Caipirinha at the neighborhood bar, just about 2 blocks away.  Of course I had to try the local drink, if it was free!  I arrived at the bar and quickly found it was the neighborhood meeting point - families, singles, everyone in the area were mingling.  I got my drink and found a small, standing-only table near the open doorways.  I caught up on my journal for the day as I enjoyed the sweet and strong drink - half of a lime, lots of sugar, ice and Brazilian sugar liquor that is surprisingly not sweet.

Many taxis were in the area, so I grabbed one to head to my dinner reservation.  I had read about Aprazivel in several guide books and saw it on a travel show.  You enter high on a hill top and immediately take stairs or an elevator down about 4 flights.  The view from almost every table is the full expanse of Rio.  And all tables are dining al fresco, with heavy tree coverage in case of rain.  My table had a fantastic view of Rio and the temperature had rapidly decreased since the afternoon to make it a very relaxing, special first night in Rio.  The food was incredible - started with roasted heart of palm, followed by filet medallions.

As a final thought on the restaurant - the bathroom sink was incredible - a free-form wooden bowl with a curved-neck facet.  A palm tree was growing through the floor and roof...and there was fresh eucalyptus hanging on the tree truck.  The entire bathroom smelled of eucalyptus which was a perfect scent to end the evening.

Off to bed...a full-day tour awaits on Friday!

Realizing the length of this post, hopefully it doesn't set the bar too high for upcoming days.