The following post covers mine and Amy's time in Venice - 091014 thru 091214:
Today (091014) we left Florence to go to Venice.
During the night there were incredibly loud thunderstorms. I am rarely awakened by weather noises - or any noises for that matter - but this was perhaps the loudest thunder I have ever heard. By morning, there was still a light rain.
We got up around 7 AM, got ready and fully packed before heading down for breakfast around 8:45. It was another wonderful breakfast in the Westin. Tons of options - I had an omelet with sausage, cheese and tomato. Amy had 3 hard boiled eggs again - this time, when they were served the wonderful host used a tool we had never seen to hold the top of the eggs, then used a knife to knock off the top of the eggs and provided Amy with a small spoon that was perfect for eating the egg directly out of the shell. I suppose that is better and classier than having to peel the egg!
The breakfast took longer than expected and I started to get antsy and nervous about the time. I wanted to leave the hotel by 10 AM for our 11:30 AM train. I think I still have airport times in my head...that we need to arrive about 2 hours in advance. There's no security and you don't even know where to go until about 20-30 minutes before the departure time.
We grabbed a cab and was on our way to the train station. The ride was only about 10 minutes and we got there by 10:45 AM. The train wasn't posted, so we stood in the craziness of the train station. Finally the train was posted and we raced to the platform. For our last train trip together, we took a few selfies.
We had to wait a while after the train arrived to be able to board due to a wheelchair being removed from our car. There was a rush to enter our car and it was packed! There wasn't the same space for large luggage that has been on all other trains. I had to search and search for space for my large bag. I finally found a space at the very front of our car, but I had to remove all of my dirty clothes from the top pocket to get it to fit.
The seats on this train were perhaps the most comfortable of the entire trip thus far. We also weren't facing anyone, so that was fantastic. We both journaled and tried to get caught up on the previous days.
There were a few stops along the way, but always very quick. We realized that we should read about what to do about transportation once we arrive in Venice.
Good thing that we read about the transportation - I assumed we would just grab a taxi to the hotel...wrong! There's not really roads in Venice - they are all pedestrian streets. The only "roads" are canals and waterways. I've always heard about the canals, but didn't realize that was the only means of transportation in the city. For everyone who already knew this, you can stop laughing now.
Once we arrived there was a mad dash for everyone to get off the train. Incredible the pushing and shoving that goes on - especially considering that the train isn't leaving anytime soon.
We decided we should talk with the Tourist Information desk to understand our transportation options and cost. We quickly learned that a private water taxi to our hotel would be over 65 euros! So we opted for the "fast" water "bus". I use quotes for both of those since the ride was neither fast nor on a bus....you're on a boat, going about 15 mph. The only "fast" part is that you don't stop at every "bus stop" along the canal.
Once we arrived at the San Marco stop, our hotel - the Westin Europa and Regina - was about a 5 minute walk through very narrow streets and at least one bridge with steps.
Check-in at the hotel was easy. Our room was again a suite, compliments of SPG suite nights. A small living room and big bedroom and huge bathroom and changing room/closet.
We got settled and headed down to the hotel bar that faces the Grand Canal for a drink. As soon as we saw the prices on the menu, we knew we were in a very different, very touristy location. The cheapest wine - either white or red - was 15 euros/glass! I got a glass of Pinot Grigio and Amy had an Espresso Martini. We also shared an appetizer of brushetta that was pretty incredible.
View during our drinks:
After our drinks, we talked to a younger concierge for many of our questions. He was not very helpful - I think we overwhelmed him with questions and perhaps English. We then headed back to the room to change clothes - ultimately deciding we would go to Harry's Bar for a drink.
We had heard about Harry's Bar from at least 4 people - we had to go for a drink - it is where the Bellini was supposedly created. We were both expecting something very ornate, swanky and elegant. We both had dressed up specifically for Harry's. We were disappointed. The bar was very minimal. The tables were close to formica covered, the Bellini's were mixed in batches of 6 or more. Our Bellini arrived in a glass about as big as a juice glass. Without constraint, we could have downed the 16.50 euro Bellini in just a few gulps. The service was professional, but completely unfriendly and uninspired. The servers never met our eye contact, never explained the extra appetizers they sat on the tables and the only instructions were that we had to be out of the table by 8 PM for dinner reservations - it was 7:30 PM when we sat down. When I asked for a table that wasn't reserved at 8 PM, we received a confused look.
We did finish our drink before 8 PM, but of course the bill and payment took until at least 8:30 PM.
After Harry's we walked around the San Marco square and St Marks Basilica. We explored a few dinner options, stopped to ask the water bus agent about airport transportation options on Saturday, etc.
While walking around a bit and trying to find some of the restaurants that the concierge recommended, we decided to walk back to the hotel and ask more suggestions. However, on the way, I suggested that we head off course for a few blocks to see if there were other options nearer to the hotel. Sure enough we stubbled on an Italian family restaurant for dinner - but where all of the servers were Asian. I had spaghetti with meatballs and a tomato sauce and Amy had spaghetti with pesto. We shared a bottle of unknown Italian wine that was quite tasty.
When we got back to the room, we went to bed quickly to have an early start on Thursday.
Today - 091114 - is our first full day in Venice.
I got up around 8:30 and we headed down for the free SPG Platinum breakfast at by 10 AM. We got a table outside, just beside the water. However, it was starting to rain, so the clear plastic walls were pulled down. Not the same level of options as in Florence, but still a very large buffet and a much better view.
After breakfast, a quick clothes change was needed for both of us before we headed out - it was much cooler than the weather forecast has predicted. First stop was the Italian Post Office...and yes, it is as disorganized and chaotic as the name implies. We stood in line for about 15 minutes to talk to an agent. During that time several older Italian women tried to skip the entire line a few times, locals came in, marched directly to the front and then acted surprised when they were pointed to the back of the line, there was no sense of personal space. Finally we talked with an agent - a lovely young lady with pretty good English. She was very helpful - giving us prices for various weight amounts and priority levels. Unfortunately they only had boxes for shipping within Italy...we'd have to go to another post office to get boxes to send anything to the USA. That was a major turn-off, especially after I realized that I had already pre-paid for 70 pounds of luggage on my flight to Berlin.
After the Post Office adventure, then we hopped the water bus to go to Rialto. Given our experience yesterday, we were happy that the ride was only 4 stops. However, this experience was so much better - the boat was not very full and the weather was cool. We initially got seats in the enclosed section, but then I went out to take pictures. Amy joined me very soon and we stayed outside, standing the entire time. I got several great shots along the water.
Rialto Bridge:
One of the first shops we stopped in had two pairs of cufflinks that I loved, but I hadn't shopped elsewhere, so I was hesitant about the price. Our concierge said that most prices in Rialto are negotiable, so I tried to bargain...but with no luck. I ended up walking out, thinking he would call after me...no such luck. Instead I heard insults about Americans not understanding the quality of real Murano glass and only wanting to pay the prices of the knock-offs.
There was one shop where I loved several of their picture frames. I ended up buying a frame there as well as two pairs of cufflinks. The salesperson was very honest in pointing out which items were real Murano glass and which ones were knock-offs that were made in China. I loved a vase at the same shop, but once I found out it was a knock-off, then I passed.
We worked up quite an appetite after so much shopping, but didn't want a 2 hour lunch adventure...luckily we found a very small shop selling pizza by the slice. They also had Coca Light and a few bar seats, so it completely fit the bill. The warm, cheesy pizza was great as well as quick. Amy tried to pay the bill of 7 euros with a credit card - and the guy gave us an earful...needless to say I quickly pulled out cash.
Once re-hydrated and stomachs full, we continued on for more shopping. I returned to the shop where I bought the frame and purchased a small bowl that matched it...the shop owner then convinced me to buy an incredible bottle stopper. He explained how they were made and that the shape I purchased was rare since it is only made by one of the glass houses (must be true, I didn't see that shape or color combination in any other store).
Of all the other cufflinks I purchased, none compared to the first ones I had seen and passed after my failed attempt at negotiating. I shallowed my pride and headed back to that store. Luckily it was a different sales person and I didn't have to face him again.
With more bags weighing down our arms, we stopped at a small cafe and enjoyed a half-bottle of Chianti while sitting at a table along the sidewalk. We were also treated to a bowl of potato chips. Watching the crowds walk by with purchases in hand and hearing all of the various languages being spoken was incredible people watching.
We ventured onward for more shopping...truly this is the most shopping I've done on my entire trip combined! Once we were completely lost and couldn't find the street names anywhere on the map, we asked a shop clerk how to get to the Rialto water bus station. He told us, but then suggested that San Marco station was much closer. We were shocked, we just needed to get back to San Marco - in all of our shopping we had walked to within a few blocks of our hotel.
It was around 6 PM by now and we decided to head to the hotel and enjoy a bottle of Rose that we had purchased and dragged around since Positano. We had not chilled the Rose, so we drank it at room temperature, which ended up being quite nice. We both journaled, but we were working on different days, so we were constantly having to ask/confirm what we did. Between the two of us, we had a pretty good recollection.
We had tried a fourth concierge when we returned to the hotel in the afternoon and got 3 recommendations for dinner. Two of them sounded quite good. Around 9 PM, we headed out to VinoVino - it was in a different direction than we had walked to date, so that was appealing, as was the name. The restaurant was a much quicker walk than the map seemed to indicate. We got a cozy table in the corner next to a window that looked down to a small canal. The servers were all very friendly and helpful. As promised by the name, the wine list was quite extensive, but also quite pricey. We selected a Primativo. The menu was also very appealing. We started with a cheese course that had 4 cheeses along with a spicy pepper jam and Italian honey. For entrees we both ordered off the daily specials list rather than the full menu. Amy had mushrooms with a side of polenta. I ordered the "Fantasia di Carne" which the translation listed on the menu was "Mixed hot meats" VinoVino style. My mixed hot meats included chicken, ribs, sausage (ground patty) and a smashed, fried meatball. The ribs were overcooked and too dry, but everything else was great. It also came with a side of polenta. Amy and I both agreed that the polenta had a different texture than any we've had before. We passed on dessert and headed back to the hotel.
When back at the hotel, we both had a glass of the Rose that was left. We resumed our journaling. By 12:30 AM or so, I started writing jibberish. I was falling asleep as I was writing and seemed to be writing in a stream of consciousness between real life and my dreams or thoughts. I read it back to Amy a few times, tried to correct it and continued to write more jibberish. I was at the part where we had lunch with the Asian servers - it came out something about Amy taking the Asian servers back to high school for a school musical.
We decided it was best for us go to bed at this point.
Today - 091214 - was the last full day that Amy and I were together. We wanted to make it eventful!
I got up around 8 AM and we went down for breakfast by 9:30. We got a little side-tracked in Facebook, texting and e-mails....as well as researching the approach for the day.
It was a bit cooler on the outside deck for breakfast, along with a consistent drizzle of rain today. We had a nice table and enjoyed our last breakfast together.
There was an older couple from the UK at the table next to us that was very interested in understanding more about my iPad once I brought it out to check the weather. He seemed very uncomfortable with technology, so I was happy to explain it to him.
Given how cool it was at breakfast, then Amy wanted to change clothes, so we headed back up to the room.
Once outside and about a block from the hotel, we realized that sharing a small umbrella was not going to work for the day, so we headed back to the hotel to pick up an umbrella from the concierge. So third attempt to leave the hotel was the charm!
We had a quick walk to San Marco Piazza area where we planned to go to the Correr Museum. We had read that it was best to get the combo ticket there for the Museum and Doge's Palace, since the line at Doge's Palace was often long. Due to the rainy weather; however, there was still a long line at the Correr Museum.
We weren't sure what to expect with the Correr Museum - it ended up being a tour of about eight rooms of the private apartment of the previous ruling families as well as lots of historical memorabilia. The rooms were quite interesting - huge Murano glass chandeliers in every room, very ornate frescos, ceilings, molding, etc. There were only a few pieces of original furniture. The museum took much longer than we had anticipated and we were certainly rushing through the last several rooms of memorabilia.
We were out of the museum by 1:00 (noticing that there was now no line to buy a ticket!) and headed across the square to Doge's Palace.
On our way to Doge's Palace, my observation of lamp posts continue, I loved the pink glass in this one:
Outside of the Palace:
There was also no line at Doge's Palace - either to buy a ticket or to get in. Obviously our timing was off this morning - everyone had the same idea of a museum tour while it was raining. Doge's Palace was the public spaces of the ruling family of Italy for centuries as well as the seat of government. There were many rooms dedicated to government and justice, including some big enough to seat the entire Senate. Other rooms were grand ballrooms, others were much smaller courtroom-type rooms for "delivering justice".
Inside Doge's Palace courtyard:
There was a golden staircase that lead to all of the upper rooms from the center courtyard - it was quite opulent and over-the-top.
I loved the circular glass in all of the windows, reminded me of bottles of wine bottles:
The prison was also located in Doge's Palace - in the basement area. We got to tour the prison - all concrete, low ceilings, and many cells. Each cell would hold numerous prisoners, who were chained to the walls. It appeared that the prison cells would have been dark much of the time - there were only a few small windows near the ceiling.
From the prison there was the "Bridge of Sighs" over which prisoners were lead to their death. The bridge offered a final quick, final glimpse of incredible views of the Venice seaside. It is said that prisoners would sigh as they crossed this bridge.
We finished touring all of Doge's Palace by 2:30 - again, rushing the final rooms which included thousands of swords and metal armor.
We were ready for a good lunch after so many museums! I suggested the easy Italian place where we ate dinner the first night in Venice. It was a short walk, we knew the food was good and they had pizzas.
Luckily, we got a table in the front room - the place was packed! We shared a four-cheese pizza, a Coca Light and both got a glass of wine. The food was great and very welcome! We had an Asian female server and I explained that I was traveling to China and Japan and then asked if she spoke either. She said that she spoke Chinese. I asked her how to say "hello" and "thank you". She returned a few minutes later with the words written out as well as pronunciation instructions.
Lunch lasted until almost 4:00 which was the time we had decided that we would go to the line to enter St. Mark's Basilica. We had read in the Rick Steve's guide that if you checked your bag, you would get a ticket to skip the wait line. We made a bee-line for the bag check which is about a block from the Basilica. Unfortunately neither Amy's umbrella nor my messenger bag qualified for checking - both too small...so no line skipping.
A complete tangent...for some reason I have a mental block on Rick Steve's name...when discussing his suggestions with Amy I'm often calling him Rick James, Steve Jobs and other random names derived from either Rick or Steve. I had brought 3 different Europe guides, but have found that his "Best of Europe 2014" has been the one that we used the most.
Back to the day...
The line for St. Mark's snaked past the exit from the Doge's Palace, so we were expecting a 30+ minute wait. Incredibly, we were through the line and inside the Basilica in about 10 minutes. The Basilica entrance is free, but there are three sections that each have a separate entrance fee. The Basilica was very dark, but the mosaics were amazing. Pretty much every surface - floor, walls, ceiling is covered in decorative mosaic tiles. The walls and ceiling are the most impressive - depicting Noah and the great flood as well as several other biblical stories. The predominant color on most of the ceiling was gold.
The floor:
Throughout Venice we've noticed uneven floors - even in our hotel room (water from the shower would run to the opposite side of the room). The Basilica was by far the most extreme example we had seen - looking down the aisle and across the nave - the floor looked like waves. Walking around the church was like going up and down small ramps. Surprisingly the tile work was still mostly in place.
The first paid exhibit was the church treasury. We both thought we had read that the Basilica had a thorn from the crown that Jesus wore while on the cross, a splinter from the cross and a nail that was used on the cross. There were many items in the treasury and most were poorly labeled, if at all...so we're not sure if those items were on display. One small room was roped off in half, so we couldn't even get very close to those glassed items...perhaps the holy items were there.
We skipped the other paid exhibits - the alter area and the museum. We could see much of the alter without having to pay and we were over museums by the end of the day.
Outside in the Piazza:
As we left the Basilica we debated what to do with the rest of our last afternoon and evening. We had not had gelato yet - anywhere in Italy. We had researched that we needed to look for particular words that indicated that the establishment made their own. We found one while strolling back through San Marco Piazza, but all of their gelato included dairy. We went on and found another gelato shop that makes their own and had three without dairy...jackpot! I had a double scoop cone - with Lemon and Peach. Amy also had a double scoop cone with Peach and Chocolate. The gelato was incredible! We both asked why we haven't been having this everyday?!
With the crowds and our need to pack and have an early dinner, we decided to get a bottle of wine and head back to the hotel. It was around 6:00 and thought we would head out to dinner around 7:30.
After buying the wine, I saw the ideal Murano vase that I had been searching for. I had told Amy at the end of yesterday - if I said that I wanted a vase, please remind me that I didn't need it, I don't have room to travel with it and to just back away. She reminded me of all of those things, but I still forged my way into the store. It was on a high shelf in the window and I could only make out two of the numbers on the price. I thought it was 19? euros. So about double what I wanted to pay, but I loved it. I asked about the price and quickly found out I was able to make out the last two numbers...the real price was 319 euros. They did offer shipping, but that was another 60-80 euros. That price point made it very easy for me to say grazie and head for the door!
We got back to the room and both started packing. The wine was quite good. We both finished packing, but then started journaling, listening to music and just having wonderful conversation about our Italy adventures.
This special time together really made me realize how much I will miss Amy as my travel companion. I have enjoyed our dinner conversations, our wine sharing, her bright and positive outlook and attitude. I'm getting a lump in my throat and tears in my eyes now as I write this. We had a very special time together that will probably never be replicated. I'm so glad that we lived in the moment each day and got the most out of our time in Italy together. I am now traveling by myself for the next 6 weeks.
We didn't head out of the room for dinner until 9 PM...and we decided to just go to the hotel lobby bar for wine and bruschetta. We also bundled up so that we could sit outside and enjoy the evening view along the Grand Canal. We were so glad that we spent our last night together in this way...nothing over the top, just wonderful time together. And the incredible view didn't hurt either. The half bottle of wine we had was one neither of us had heard of before, but it was very good. We both took a picture of it to look for in the US.
We got back to the room, finished our bottle there, chatted and journaled more and finally went to bed at 11:45. Going to be a short night with the alarm set for 2:40 AM!
No comments:
Post a Comment