Prague

The following post details my time in Prague - Sept 16-17, 2014

Sept 16:

Today is mostly a travel day from Berlin to Prague.  I had decided on the 10:46 AM train so that I could sleep a little later.  The other option of 8:30 seemed just a little too early since I had to pack and get to the main train station...so a subway ride from my hotel.

I got up a little later than planned, but still left the hotel pretty much as scheduled.  

I was hopefully that the U line right next to the hotel would get me to the main train station...unfortunately it wouldn't, so I decided to walk to the S-Bahn at Friedrichstrasse.  I was very careful in walking so avoid another wipe out with my suitcase on this route.  I was within about 100 yards of the train station door  and thought I was home free...and course hit a big whole in the sidewalk and went door with the bag!  I'm fine each time since I usually just fall on top of the bag, but it certainly doesn't look very graceful.

I only had to ride one stop to the main train station and had thought about not even getting a ticket, but I did...but then forgot to stamp it before entering the train...so was almost like not having a ticket anyway.  No ticket checking, so all was fine.

The main train station is HUGE!  I had seen it on the bus tour on Sunday and heard how it had taken about 6 years to build.  It is very impressive and is the main hub for long-distance trains.  There were easily 5 levels.  My train to Prague was on the very bottom level.  The station is very open and airy with lots of glass.  All of the railing walls are also glass from the floor up.  I looked over a few and you could see down to the very bottom level...it certainly gave me a few stomach butterflies and a little weak in the knees.

I grabbed a cinnamon scone and headed for my train platform.  It was still about 25 minutes before the train departure, but some folks were starting to gather.  I didn't have a seat assignment - the agent last night told me that there were no seat assignments and the agent on the train would tell me where to sit.  I overheard several other folks saying this same thing, so I felt better.  

By 5 minutes before the train arrived, the platform was packed.  A few folks got off the train and then the stampede started.  The lack of understanding of queue lines still perplexes me.  I was obviously right next to the door, the next to get on, just waiting for someone to exit when someone jumped right in front of me.

Once on the train, I didn't see any large luggage racks like there has been on every other train...it was just the overhead space.  There's no way I'm able to lift my bag above my head.  The train car was complete chaos.  No one had seat assignments, but some people were insistent that they had reserved seats.  Most everyone had huge suitcases, so the aisles were completely blocked.  I just grabbed the first forward-facing, single seat I saw and didn't move.  I didn't get involved in any of the discussions and kept my head down...hoping that no one would claim that they had my selected seat reserved.

With chaos still in full force, the train started moving!  I had this horrible image of being stuck like this for the next 5 hours.  What amazed me the most is that the train agent was standing at the back of the car and did nothing.  When someone went to ask her all she said is there there no assigned/reserved seats.

By the next stop that was only about 5 minute away, things had settled down and most everyone had found a seat and huge suitcases merely filled the aisle.  Someone ended up sitting in front of me.  The agent started coming through the car to check tickets.  No comment about my seat selection, so I guess I was good.  A very loud family of four sitting diagonally from me (one of the groups that had been so insistent that they had assigned seats) were booted from 1st class - they had 2nd class tickets.  I had to chuckle a little.

Luckily the woman in front of me saw the prime opportunity to move, so she did.  

My ride after the woman moved:  :-)

The train made a few stops along the way.  My ticket was checked a few times; however, otherwise the train agent was completely absent.

A few quick snap shots along the ride:

These were both once we were in the Prague area:

As we approached our arrival time in Prague, several of us started to get our things together and ready to exit.

We stopped at the train station that is just north of town.  I had read about this station and knew that there was a closer one; however, there were no announcements if another stop would be made.  The train was ultimately going on to Budapest.  Many of us got off the train.  We were all talking if this was the correct stop.  There was the same guy from Manila and the couple from Japan, we had all commiserated during the seating fiasco at the beginning of the trip.

I told several folks that there was a closer stop, but we had no idea if the train was going to make a stop.

I saw the train agent about 3 cars down, outside of the train.  I waved at her and indicated that I was coming her way.  She seemed to nod acknowledgement.  However, when I was about a quarter of a car away from her, she sounded a whistle, jumped on the train and the door shut.  I was like...really, you saw me running to you to ask a question.  This was easily the worst train experience of my entire trip thus far.

A entire group of us walked down the ramp discussing what we should do.  I walked directly to a ticket window and after a few sentences, she said I had to talk with someone else.  I saw the line for "someone else" and decided to figure it out on my own.

I got cash from the ATM - 3,000 Czech crowns which is about $150.  If I decided on a cab or other option, then I wanted to have cash.  Unfortunately the ATM gave me three 1,000 bills.  Sure enough when I decided to take the tram, the ticket was 24 crowns and only took coins...my 1,000 bills were not so helpful!  I found a window and she studied the 1,000 bill quite extensively before making change.

The train was quite easy...until a school group of at least 50 middle school kids got on two stations before my stop.  I was having to fight their body odor and overall masses to get off the train.

The walk from the train station was just about my breaking point of the trip.  It was about 20 minutes - all uphill, dragging my bag on cobble stone sidewalks and quite warm.  Still not sure how the wheels didn't break off of the suitcase.  At that moment, I proclaimed that I was taking a cab to the train station when leaving.  

I had never been so happy to see the "S" of the Sheraton in the distance.  There were a few guys in front of me at check-in that had been on the train.  They stayed on the train when I got off too early, so in the end, timing didn't really matter...and I have a feeling they took a taxi too.

I got upgraded to a suite and it was nice.  It was about 4:30 by the time I got the room and I didn't feel like going out to explore.  The lounge would have free wine and appetizers in about 1.5 hours, so I hung out in the room, texting several folks including my Dad who had a birthday today.  Sort of a milestone birthday...the last of his 60's - 69!!

I stopped to talk to the concierge about plans for tomorrow and he suggested a 6 hour group tour.  I debated and debated.  I even asked the attendant in the lounge if other guests had like it.  He raved about it.  It is to cover 36 of the major sites, includes lunch, etc.  I was hesitant since you don't go into most of the sights.

I went down to the lounge within 10 minutes of the happy hour starting.  There were already two other guys there.  Big selection, but all small things.  I love the international lounges with free wine.  I had two glasses while there and took a third up to my room for later.

As I left the lounge, then I stopped to ask the concierge about dinner recommendations as well as book my tour for Wed.  He suggested a place that was known for duck.  I'm not a huge duck fan, but he said that it was very typical Czech food and he would go there himself for special dinners.  He called and made reservations for me at 8:30.

It was about a 15 minute walk and I must admit that I made a few wrong turns...the map was not exactly the reality of the roads.  One wrong turn took me post a church where a brass orchestra was rehearsing, so I stopped to listen for a while...I always listen intently for the French horn.

The dinner place - U Mondre Kachnicio - "The Blue Duckling" - was simply amazing!  I loved the ambiance of the restaurant - low lighting, cozy tables and live music with a piano player/singer.  The music of the evening was an odd selection...I think that my hearing is more acute when I'm by myself.  The piano player/singer alternated between singing random Czech songs and just playing very traditional US songs...and then trying to sing US songs.  The first to catch my attention was playing "What Child is This"...I love Christmas songs, but Sept 16 is even too early for me.  Next was singing "Killing Me Softly"; then playing Ryan's Song, then Theme from Titanic.  At this point my food started to arrive, so my attention was diverted.  Later in the meal she played several impressive Wagner and Beethoven pieces.

To start, I had sheep cheese with garlic oil...delicious.  Next was a traditional Czech potato soup.  I must know how to make this...it was incredible.  Soft, small bites of potatoes, carrots, mushrooms and a very fragrant, flavorful broth.  For the main dish, I had roasted duck with bacon Brussels sprouts and potato cakes.  Before this trip I had rarely if ever ordered duck, but this was my second or third time of having duck (and I think of Anne Nichol every time!).  Tonight's duck was still a full breast and I had to remove the meat.  The meat was cooked perfectly and small amount of sauce was the perfect accompaniment.

The soup (I forgot to take a picture until the soup was almost gone!):

And the duck, the Brussel sprouts are hiding under the duck:

I leisurely finished my meal and my wine.  I was the last person to leave the restaurant, but the piano player stayed until I walked out the door. 

The walk back to the hotel was a little cool.  I felt much more confident in the walk back...it was much more straightforward than the concierge had drawn on the map.

Back at the hotel, I stopped in the lobby bar.  The bartender was talkative and we discussed soccer since highlights of the Real Madrid game was playing on the TV. 

I went up to the room and finally to bed at 1:30 AM.

Sept 17, 2014:

Today is my only full day in Prague.  I'm quickly realizing that my rapid, ambitious Eastern European tour is just that.  I'm only going to have about a day in many of the upcoming cities, so have to make the most of one day!

For today I debated last night for about two hours if I should take an organized tour or just venture out on my own.  The concierge heavily recommended the organized tour which made me even more suspicious (perhaps I should just be more trusting?).  Given the broad coverage of the tour, plus that it was in English with a live guide, then I was persuaded.

The shuttle arrived at 9:30.  It was almost full by the time that I joined...and I did not hear English anywhere else on the bus.  This was not looking good.  We stopped at one other hotel...still no English.

We arrived at the main meeting spot...then the masses arrived - 4 other vans, all bigger than the one on which I had ridden.  The English tour guide and the rest of the English tour were on these buses.

The tour guide was named Matthew, so we had an instant connection, whether he knew it or not.

There were 24 folks in our English group, with 6 of us from the US.  4 from CA, 1 from NC and me.  My concern continued though - me and a couple from CA were the youngest folks in the group.  This was a 6-hour walking tour...not sure if all of them could walk for six hours.  At this point, I'm really regretting my decision and thinking how I could just walk away, especially since I had yet to pay.  The younger couple from CA lived in Marina del Rey and had gone to Iowa St, so they were very intrigued when I said I was from Minneapolis.

I stayed with the tour.  But then Matthew started talking...he was such a soft talker and his voice did not carry.  Again...how can I escape?

I continued on with the tour and it got better.  We got a very brief history about Prague and the Czech Republic.

From there, we continued on to the Prague Castle Complex.  The Prague Castle Complex is the largest castle district in the world.  There's not just one building, but many.  It covers over 40 hectares, which I think is around 99 acres.  

One of the two guards as we entered the Castle Complex - they change hourly:

Look at the very bottom corners of this picture - you can see where the two guard stands are positioned:

The chapel is what is most visible of the Castle Complex skyline, but there are many buildings surrounding it.  The cathedral was specially built in this fashion - the front is not visible until you have walked through of some of the Castle grounds, so the impact is quite grand.

We heard more about the history of the cathedral - it was just finished in the 1920's after construction began in the 1400's.  Admittedly this duration was adding many new additions.  From the side of the church, we could easily see each major section that was added over the centuries...it was also evident by the age and coloring of the stone covering.

Pictures from inside the Cathedral:

From the Castle, we continued walking through the Castle area and saw several other churches and other structures considered part of the Castle Complex.  In total we covered:

- St. Vitus Cathedral

- Strahov Monastery

- Schwarzengberg Palace

- Hradschin Town

- Lobkowitz Palace

- Archbishop Palace

- Castle Gardens

The tour continued into the Lesser Town Area.  Folks in the group started to talk to each other more and I met several folks.  My friend for the day ended up being Sylvia - she had originally introduced herself as being from Peru, but left off the part that she has lived in the Los Angels area for over 20 years.  Actually, she lives very close to where I had worked in Woodland Hills.  She works within healthcare too, so we discussed that a bit.  Sylvia was traveling with her friend Nelly.  She said that they have taken a 3-week trip together every year for the past 5 years.  We were giving each other suggestions for places to visit since our European adventures were somewhat opposite.

In the Lesser Town Area we visited: 

- Nerudova Street 

- St. Nicholas Church 

- Infant Jesus of Prague 

- Knights of Malta 

- Lennon's Wall 

- Kampa Island 

- Certovka Canal 

- Charles Bridge 

- Old Town Bridge Tower

From Lennon's Wall:

Old Town Bridge Tower:

At the end of Charles Bridge, then we headed to the boat ride portion of the tour.  It was a smaller boat that had capacity only for the 24 folks on our tour.  We had to order lunch entrees before the boat ride started - although lunch wasn't going to be for another hour at a restaurant.  The tour guide read the menu to us and then we had to "order" by raising our hands.

The weather was beautiful, around 75 degrees and very bright and sunny, so the boat ride was pleasant....so much so that I fell asleep for about 10 minutes.   While the ride was about 45 minutes, we didn't cover much area - just about a quarter of a mile on each side of the Charles Bridge.  We were served treats before leaving the dock - either beer or Sprite and then either ice cream or chocolate-covered ginger bread.  I had Sprite and ginger bread.  I was certainly in the minority with my selections.

Most of the information on the boat was a recording, which ended up being good since I could never hear the captain give any of the additional information.  Luckily he passed large, laminated pictures of some things he discussed.  So through pictures I learned:  

- The river used to freeze in the winter and residents would ice skate, but through dams and other means the river no longer freezes

- Several sections of the Charles River Bridge collapsed, sometime in the 1800's

- There had been a huge statue of Stalin built in the late 1940's/early 1950's which overlooked the river, but the Russian government ordered it to be blown up in either the late 1950's or early 1960's (after determining that Stalin was a horrible dictator)...only the huge base stood for many years and ultimately a huge metronome-type sculpture was placed on the base.  This was around my nap time, so exact dates are a little fuzzy.

After the boat ride, it was almost 2 PM and the guide promised that we were going to lunch.  However, along the way we also toured most of the Old Town Area...so lunch was still at least 45 minutes away.

In Old Town Area we saw:

- King's Coronation Way

- Clementinum

- Astronomical Clock

- Old Town Square

- Tyn Church

- Ungelt

- Powder Gate 

Astronomical Clock:

Finally we arrived at lunch.  It was in a Medieval-type restaurant...in the basement area...so very dark.  There were about 4 large communal tables.  Most of the Americans ended up sitting together - me, Sylvia, Nelly, a guy from NC and an older couple from San Francisco.  

Lunch was two courses - a starter and a main entree - and included your choice of any beverage plus water and bread.  Everyone at the US table had wine!  I had the traditional Czech potato soup to start and then pork tenderloin with two types of dumplings and cabbage for the entree.  The potato soup was similar to the one at last night's dinner, but was missing the potato pieces...just had carrots and mushrooms.  Several of us got the soup and was joking that it was missing the key ingredient.  The pork was good, nothing special.  The dumplings were interesting - one had a consistency more like bread and must have been a large ball as I just had two slices of it.  The other one was much smaller, but also served in slices and had more of a typical dumpling consistency with a bit sweeter taste.

In the large, tour group manner, the guide came by towards the end to announce that we were leaving in 5 minutes.  Sylvia, Nelly and I were discussing that this was the first big tour group that we had done on our respective trips and had only selected this one since we all had only one full day in Prague...by the end of the day we were pleased with the amount that was covered, but didn't care for the big tour group experience.

After lunch the tour lasted about 45 more minutes.  We went back to the Old Town Area to explore the Old Town Square a little longer.  From there we walked to the Jewish Quarter.  Here we saw:

- Old Jewish Cemetery

- Old New Synagogue

- Former Jewish Town Hall

- Jewish Ceremonial Hall

- Pinkas Synagogue

- Maisel Synagogue

- Spanish Synagogue

- Franz Kafka House

Start of the Jewish Quarter with Old New Synagogue on the right:

Top of the Old New Synagogue:

The guide asked us why we thought so many historic Jewish Synagogues had survived WWII and the Nazi occupation and rule.  There weren't many answers offered, so he explained that Hitler wanted to create a museum of the population that he had eradicated and had picked Prague as that location.  According to the guide, during WWII only three buildings in Prague were damaged or destroyed.

A clock in the Jewish Quarter, note the Hebrew markings and it is all backwards compared to the modern day clock in the upper right corner:

As the tour ended, we were all looking for the shuttles to take us back to our hotels...there were no such buses.  Matthew explained that we were now on our own.  A few folks were very concerned as they had left items on the shuttles.  I asked him where we were on the map and headed out to find the nearest metro to get to the main train station - I needed to buy my train ticket to Munich for the next day.  

The metro system in Prague is quite good, has great signage and is very efficient and timely.  I had read in one of the guide books that it is one of the few great things developed during the Communist rule...and I fully agree.  It is also quite cheap - a 30 minute pass which is long enough to get almost any where in the city is only 24 crowns...so just over $1 US.  For 90 minutes, only 32 crowns...so about $1.50 US.

The main train station was quite nice and very large - lots of shopping, restaurants, etc...and a huge ticket office.  I loved it even more since there were no lines for the International ticket counter.  The agent spoke enough English for us to successfully book my ticket to Munich and I was on my way.

It was nearing 5:00 at this point and I headed back to the hotel, but then was sidetracked by the area around the Muzeum metro stop.  It is a major shopping area along Vaclavske nam street.  I found my Prague keychain to make into a Christmas ornament...admittedly I did find several real Christmas ornaments, but they were so delicate, I wasn't sure if they would survive the walk back to the hotel and certainly not one train ride or shipping home.

Every souvenir shop and many other shops had an extensive selection of crystal.  It was lovely to look at and admire, but again was met with my lack of space issue...plus traveling with crystal sounds problematic.  I was very tempted by a small, colorful vase, but passed.  I need to research why Prague is so well known for crystal....if anyone knows, please let me know.

Back at the hotel, I hadn't really unpacked in Prague, so nothing to pack tonight.  At 6:15 I headed down to the lounge for free appetizers and wine.  I asked the attendant about the wine this time and he confirmed that it was a Czech wine - I took a picture of the bottle and my best guess is that the grape varietal is Svato Vavrinecke.  I went through 2 glasses and then took a full glass back to my room.

A few folks from the previous night sat at the table next to me and we ended up talking some.  They were three friends who do a trip together every year.  Two of the three live in Minnesota - near Stillwater, so we discussed home for a bit as well our travel plans.  They were heading to Munich too, on Friday.  They offered me seats with them at a beer garden for Oktoberfest on Sunday, but I'm leaving Munich on Saturday so had to pass. 

My concierge friend was off for the night and there was a new guy.  He made reservations for me at another restaurant that sounded good - it was in a tower on the 8th floor, so promised a great view of the city.  It was about a 15 minute walk, but my reservation wasn't until 9:30, so I stopped at a bar for a glass of wine...only 58 crowns...so just over $2 US!

The restaurant was very nice and I loved the ambiance.  Since the reservations was so late, I only had an entree and a glass of wine.  The waiter said they were known for their game entrees and I selected a Wild Boar filet - he went on and on how much I would enjoy it.  About 5 minutes later he came back to tell me that they had sold the last Wild Boar filet to the table behind me.  I asked about the venison and he said that it was very gamey...I figured if he described it as very game, I would find it extremely gamey, so I choose the beef steak...and it was delicious!  The waiter did bring a lovely amuse-bush course with shrimp on toast with herbed cream cheese, dill and dots of balsamic vinegar.

Besides getting the last Wild Boar filet, the table behind me was occupied by a horribly obnoxious couple...and of course they were from the US.  The wife was completely wasted and said that several times.  The husband was so loud and told his wife several times how much he loved her, but that he didn't think that she fully appreciated it at this point in their lives.  Their non-stop conversation was a really turn-off for me.  I tried to tune them out, but they are so loud and so obnoxious, it is difficult.  

Once they started using horribly inappropriate and vulgar terms to discuss extended family members, then I quickly got the check and headed back to the hotel.  Back in the room, I fell asleep on the sofa while journalling.  I woke up and got in bed around 2:30 AM.