Florence

The post below covers our time in Florence - Sept 8 - 10, 2014:

Today we leave Positano and head to Florence.

Amy wanted to watch the sunrise, so she set her alarm for 6:25 AM.  Unfortunately there was a marine/haze layer, so not a good sunrise view for out last morning in Positano.  We both showered and dressed and our breakfast arrived on schedule at 8:30 AM.  Pretty much a repeat of Sunday's breakfast, but still with the wonderful views from the terrace.

We headed down for the car service at 9:30, checked out while our bags were being loaded in the car and then we were off for Naples.  The drive took about 1.5 hours and we both slept thru most of it.  Something about riding in a car that immediately puts me to sleep.

We arrived at the Naples Train station around 11 AM, with our train scheduled to leave at 12 PM.  We searched out a toilet and we experienced the first paid toilet of my entire trip.  It was set up like a subway entrance - you had to deposit 1 euro before the glass partition would swing open for you to enter the restroom.  Good thing we both had coins!  An employee was standing guard and would give change if needed.

The train was posted by 11:40 and we made our way to the platform.  The train was already boarding by the time we made it to our car.  Luckily still plenty of space for our bags...actually the car was pretty empty which was a nice change.

Once the trip was underway, there was a free bar cart - it had been paid on all the previous trains, so of course we both had a glass of Champagne.

The train made stops at two different Rome stations and then on to Florence - arriving on time at 2:51 PM.

Off the train and we found a taxi line.  The sun was so hot - just like in Positano...there is something about the Tuscan sun.  We got a cab - and it ended up being a very short ride to the hotel.

We arrived about 3:15.  The welcome was nice and the lobby was incredible.  After the credit card and passport swipe, etc we were told to sit in the lobby while they found us a very nice room.  

In the interim we talked with the concierge for a while.  We wanted to plan a wine tour in Tuscany.  We quickly learned that many wine tours take off on Tuesday - our only full day in Florence.  The ones that were available didn't leave Florence until early afternoon, returning after 8 PM.  Our confirmed time for Academia is at 5:45, so we can't return that late.  The concierge suggested that we could drive, but then there were too many complications - driving a stick shift, wine tasting then driving in a foreign country, getting lost, making winery appointments, etc.  We decided that trying to drive ourselves was not a great idea and that we could fill the day in Florence.

At 3:35 the front desk agent found us - said that our room would not be ready for another 30 minutes.  He suggested that we go to the roof top bar to wait.  He took us to the roof top bar and told the manager to take good care of us.  The bar was very different than the rest of the hotel.  The hotel is very traditional - lots of wood, heavy furniture, rugs, 1800's style art, etc.  The roof top was very modern - all glass, metal and minimal.  The feel was very much like a W hotel.  We chose a table outside with a great view of the river, but still in the shade.  We both ordered a glass of Chianti.  

About 10 minutes after our wine arrived, then the front desk rep arrived with our room keys.  We stayed longer and finished the wine before heading down to the room.

Once in the room, we both unpacked and got settled.  I sat on the sofa and ultimately feel asleep.  Amy napped too.  We both woke up around 6:30 and agreed that we needed to go out.  

We left the hotel around 7:00.  We walked along the Arno River - there's not much too it.  The walls of the river are built rather high and you can really only see the water when looking over the railing.  Another city that hasn't embraced the water flowing through the city - I wonder if it has flooded many times and this is their way of dealing with it.  Regardless, I still find it interesting how so many cities in the US are embracing the water within their cities and building boardwalks and new means of retail, dining and entertainment..but many European towns have turned their backs on the rivers/lakes/etc.  It was sunset as we walked:

From the Arno River, we turned towards the center of town, up a pedestrian mall area that was mostly retail stores.  We stumbled upon a few Piazzas along the way too.

From the pedestrian mall, we turned on to a side street to find the recommended wine bar - Cantinetta del Verrazzano.  There were only two tables outside and both were taken.  There were about 6 other tables that were visible, but they were also full.  We were offered a table in a back room - with no other tables occupied.  We agreed to take that table as along as we could get moved to the other room when a table opens up.  

Just after we had ordered wine, a table in the main section opened, but we decided to stay put.  The private room was very nice and there was a John Denver Greatest Hits CD playing so we were singing along to "Country Roads," "Rocky Mountain High" and "Thank God I'm a Country Boy" amoung many others.  A couple from the UK joined us at some point and I was surprised to see them singing the John Denver songs to each other.  The CD was the only music option and the full DC played on repeat for the 2.5+ hours we were there - good thing we like John Denver.

The wine bar not only specialized in wines of the Tuscan region, but also had a winery.  Most of the wines served was from their winery/castle.  I started with a Chianti Classico Riserva and Amy had a SuperTuscan.  For our second glasses I had a different SuperTuscan and Amy had a  Gran Chianti that was 100% Sangiovese.  The waiter had served us a complimentary plates of several small bites - all good, but nothing spectacular.  The UK couple had ordered a cheese plate that looked quite good, so we copied them.  Three cheeses with 4 different jams and honey to enhance the taste.  I loved all three cheeses and accompaniments.  Amy wasn't wild about the very fresh goat cheese - so more for me!

We shut the place down at 9:30 and headed back to the hotel.  We both decided that we didn't need more dinner and should skip a few meals in the next few days given the amount of pasta and bread we've consumed.

Once at the hotel, we went to the roof top for a night cap.  We got a table in the front corner with wonderful views of the front Piazza, the river and across the river where a live concert was still in progress.  I ordered a glass of Chianti and Amy ordered a Lemon-chello.  We enjoyed the Italian singer from the live concert across the river, especially when he broke into numerous English-worded Elvis songs.

The concert across the river:

View from out table as we sipped drinks:

A lovely evening.  Once in the room, we went to bed rather quickly.   

Next day - 090914

Amy is training for a marathon, so today started with a workout for her.  I had the fantastic opportunity to sleep late!  

After Amy returned from her workout, we finished getting ready and headed down for our free SPG breakfast.  The world was our oyster with all of their selections on the buffet.  We both had fruit, pastries along with specialties prepared by the chef - an omelet for me and 3 hard boiled eggs for Amy.

Following breakfast, we headed out for the day.  First stop was the church on the same Piazza as our hotel - Ognissanti.  The decoration was incredible and so many fantastic side-chapels with rich ornamentation.  Besides St. Peter's Basilica, this was Amy's favorite church of the trip:

Next we continued on to Piazza Santa Maria Novella.  The church in this Piazza was interesting from the outside, but the Rick Steve's description of the inside and museum was not so appealing, plus there was a fee to enter, so we skipped the inside portion.

From Piazza Santa Maria Novella we continued on towards Piazza Del Duomo.  Along the way we stopped at numerous street vendors - looking for postcards for Matt and gifts for the kids for Amy.  

Piazza del Duomo has the largest church in Florence and is one of the key features of their "skyline".  Entrance to the cathedral is free and luckily the line moved very fast...only about 5-7 minutes.  There was an entire group of Russian tourists that tried to merge with the line right at the entrance door, but a group of about 10 of us blocked them out explaining "go to the end of the line"...the 4 teens from Australia directly behind us were very instrumental in this group effort!

For as impressive and ornate as the outside was, the inside of the Duomo was rather disappointing.  

We walked their entire chapel in less time than we stood in line.  Also in comparison to the many churches I've seen thus far in the trip, it was rather bland and plain.  There was probably much history and significance that we didn't understand since we also didn't pay for the audio tour.  In the end we were glad to have seen it, but I would not heavily recommend it.

Next stop for the afternoon was the San Lorenzo Market - just a few blocks from the Duomo.  We searched and searched and think we finally found the Market, but it never matched any of the guide book descriptions.  We found San Lorenzo Chapel - again, an interesting outside, but we didn't go inside.  It is a chapel that Michelangelo designed and worked on for several years, but the Pope pulled funding, so the outside is still mostly unfinished.  

The market was supposed to be a fantastic place to buy fresh produce along with locally made crafts, etc.  All that we found were blocks of street vendors with leather, ties and souvenirs.  Saw this shirt and thought it was great European humor:

We did however find Mercado Centrale which lived up to the guide book promises.  Tons of booths with produce, fish, meat, mushrooms, wine and other staples of a solid Italian diet.  We walked up and down every aisle of the Mercado, admiring the selection, buying a few spices and beginning to think about lunch.  Unfortunately we were visiting past the peak lunch times and only one booth was still serving.  It was near the fish section of the market and we were both reeling from the intense fishy smells as the other vendors were cleaning up.

Instead, we walked a few blocks and found a great Italian place for lunch.  We had first stopped at another place, but got up and left shortly after sitting down - there was no air conditioning and little air flow.  A lunch in Florence with this humidity needs to include AC!

For lunch we both started with a Chianti Classico Riserva - but different ones so that we could try more options.  I had fresh Pappadelle pasta with a wild boar sauce.  Amy had Ravioli with basil, onions and buffalo mozzarella...she also said that it had a pumpkin or "fallish" taste.  It was a wonderful lunch and we both ate every bite.  In typical European style, the check delivery took a very long time even after we asked for it numerous times.

During lunch we had decided to get a cab afterwards and head to Piazza Michelangelo which is across the river.  The description promised great views of the city and a few replicates of his sculptures.  Getting a taxi was a bit more difficult than we had expected and had to walk about 8-10 blocks before finding one.  We were shocked by the number of tourists, tour buses, and street vendors in the Piazza.  We were inhaling tour bus exhaust to make our way to the Piazza from the taxi drop-off.  However the views of the city were stunning.  The sun was scrotching and we often sought out the shade provided in the street vendor stands.  

After about 30 minutes in the Piazza we were done with the heat and wanted some rest time at the hotel before going to our scheduled time at Academia to see David.  Luckily we were able to get a taxi pretty quickly - Rick Steve's had suggested walking down the mountain from the Piazza, but we were in no mood for that much walking in the afternoon sun.

Back at the hotel, we both relaxed for a while, even taking a quick, power nap.

Around 5:15 we left the hotel to head to Academia, taking different streets to be able to see other shops and Piazzas.  We walked across the Piazza Della Repubblica with a wonderful Arch and a playful carousel.  

Once we arrived in the area of Academia, we were completely confused.  The signage was terrible to even find the museum.  Once we found it down a small alley street, the signage for the various lines was even worse.  We had tickets with a reserved time in order to avoid any long lines...but there were long lines every where.  We started in one line that said "Reserved" but it didn't move for about 10 minutes.  So Amy took our confirmation letter to an agent who pointed us to another line.  Literally as I got out of line to join her, the same agent opened our old line and let in about 50 people!  Now we stood in our new line for about 10 min.  Ironically when we got inside, we saw that the two lines lead to the exact same security line.  

At this point we were both cursing the Academia!

We looked at art pieces in a few of the initial rooms, but decided to move on to the main attraction.  The biggest display space of the museum is dedicated to David, with a long room preceeding him with other, mostly unfinished sculptures by Michelangelo.

But the sight of David as you first walk into the space is breathtaking.  The sculpture is about 19 feet tall and has different lighting illuminating him.  David stands above all heads and cameras of the museum visitors, so your view is never obstructed.  As we moved closer, I took many pictures.  The anatomical detail is incredible - the veins, the muscles, the rib cage, the jugular.  Amy mentioned that the veins were so real that she could easily put an IV in his arm.

We stood and walked around the sculpture for about 30 minutes, then sat down and admired it for another 20-30 min.  We finally walked on to a few other rooms, but nothing compared to David.

The flow of the museum is very poor and we had to criss-cross ourselves and the David room many times to get to the other rooms and ultimately to the exit.  

It was just after sunset when we exited and we started walking back towards the Duomo.  The lighting was perfect for pictures at this time.

We ended up at the same wine bar as last night - the atmosphere, the wine selection, the cheese course were all fantastic, so deserved a re0-visit.  We initially got the table right by the door, but ultimately got to move to one of the two tables on the outside patio.  None of the same waiters tonight, but the one tonight was just as fantastic in his service and knowledge...and bringing us some special, free treats.

We both started with the same first glasses of wine as the previous night - Chianti Classico Riservo for me and the SuperTuscan for Amy.  We both had the SuperTuscan as our second glass.  We also chose the cheese course and there was a different cheese in place of the goat cheese tonight.

The server brought a special appetizer at the end - cheese on a wonderful piece of bread, then finished it table-side with honey directly from a honeycomb and then zest directly from an orange.

We loved the SuperTuscan so much that we ordered a bottle to go to enjoy in the room.  After paying the bill, then we walked back to the hotel.  We walked this interesting square with "models" running up the side of the building...a little creepy at the same time:

At the hotel, we cracked open the SuperTuscan wine and enjoyed it together, both journaling and sipping the wine.

We headed off to bed around 1:30 AM.  We also both packed a bit to prepare to leave on Wed morning...off to Venice and the last leg of our trip together.

Florence was a great visit.  Amy and I both have commented that we were very happy with everything we saw and don't feel that we've left much undiscovered.  For anyone that is apprehensive about international travel, I would highly recommend Florence.  Almost everyone we encountered spoke English, the town is very manageable - no metro system to understand and all major sites are within a 20-25 minute walking radius, great restaurants, reasonable pricing and no outrageous lines to see the various attractions.