Last Days in Europe

This post details the last few days of my time in Europe - Sept 28 - Oct 1.  I covered 4 cities in 2 countries within 4 days.

Sept 28, 2014:

Today starts my four-day, four-city, two-country jaunt through Western Europe.  Specifically Belgium (Brussels, Brugge and Antwerp) and The Netherlands (Amsterdam).

I had arranged a taxi to the airport to leave the hotel in Krakow at 10:30 AM.  I had big plans to get up early, journal, have breakfast...overall just a leisurely morning.  Of course I kept hitting snooze and got up around 9 AM.  I got ready and packed, then a quick breakfast.  

I checked out and the taxi driver was waiting - with a Mercedes - that seems to be the typical taxi in much of Europe.  After six weeks in Europe, a Mercedes in Europe seems to be like a Toyota in the USA...a typical work-horse type car that everyone has.

The ride to the airport was about 20 minutes.  When we approached, he asked which terminal...uhhh, no idea.  We finally figured out that I needed Terminal 1 for international.  As we approached, all I could see was construction...no sign of an actual, functioning terminal.

Once inside, the place was mobbed...tons of people.  I walked all of the check-in desks and none of them listed Brussels Airlines.  I went to the information booth and luckily they informed me that it would be positions 32-35, but they wouldn't open for 7 more minutes.  These positions were off by themselves, so I found some temporary quiet while I waited for the desk to open.

Check-in was easy and the clerk was very nice, giving me an aisle seat close to the front.  

The agent suggested that I go through security now as long lines can develop.  I go to security.  Luckily the lines aren't too bad, about a 10 minute wait.  When I get to the front - I had watched the video to take off my watch, belt, wallet, jacket...as well as electronics out of my backpack which included all chargers too.  So I had to get out my converter, all of the charging cables, iPad, etc.  I thought I was good to go.  I had not even gone through the metal detector when the agent pulled my bag, saying I had to open it.  He started taking more and more out - it was just a few items from being completely empty.  I went through the metal detector and didn't set it off, but was selected for random search - so I got a very thorough, very rough pat down - back and front - a hearty good-bye to Poland.

There was no place to repack your bags, so I pretty much blocked the line for about 10 minutes as I completely repacked my backpack.  It is a very fine packing job to get it all to fit as well to protect the various glass things that I have not shipped home.  

I had about 40 PLN to spend, but area was so crowded with people and only a few shops along with 4 gates in a very small area that shopping was not enjoyable so I gave up, keeping the currency as a souviner. 

Around the posted boarding time, then Brussels Air agents arrived, changed the sign to our flight and then unlocked and opened the door where we would walk down to a bus.  At this point, several people including me, got up and moved towards the gate...and then we waited and waited and waited.  Our boarding time passed by more than 25 minutes when we noticed a Brussels Air jet landing.  Still the gate agents had said nothing.  It was within 5 minutes of our departure time, everyone was still in the gate and there was complete silence from the agents.  Finally at our flight time then we started "boarding"...not the plane, just the bus.  

We all climbed on the bus and it was a very long wait.  We finally pulled away and headed towards the plane; however, the previous passengers were still deplaning, so we waited about 1000 yards from the plane.  The other bus pulled away and we finally pulled up next to plane...and again waited quite a while.  Finally someone appeared gave a thumbs up to allow us to board.  There was a mass rush to the plane.  The stairs to the first part of the plane were so small, narrow and virtually straight up...closer to a ladder than a set of stairs.

The flight was relatively uneventful.  We landed surprisingly just a few minutes late considering how late we left.  The walk through the airport was very long...and multiple levels.  Looked like lots of good shopping though.  

Made it to baggage claim and the bags took a very long time.  With bags in hand, I headed to the customs exit - it was very long, backed up into baggage claim.  In the end, there were no checks, but just the effort of funneling people into a small door...and people not realizing to keep moving...just stopping and looking for their rides, family, etc.

I found the train station...many more levels and escalators.  The train was a little confusing and I wasn't sure exactly where they were going.  The stops didn't match to anything on my map.

In the end, I got a ticket and headed for the next platform.  Interesting - the tickets in Belgium are not for a specific train or time - just for the day.

On the train, I figured out that the first stop from the airport was going to be just one station from my hotel...whereas the next stop would be numerous stops passed the hotel.

So I got off the first stop and found my way to the metro.  I bought a ticket, but ended up never validating it...so I was able to use it again the next day.  As a side note...the validation process has been so different in every city.  Sometimes you have to validate the ticket to go through the turn stall, some you have to validate just at a machine on the platform, still others you validate the ticket on the machine...so I don't intentially not validate my ticket...it is more that I don't remember because it is so different from the last city.

The ride to the hotel was very quick - just one stop.  When I arrived at the next station, there was tons of construction on the street level.  I had to traverse many rough, uneven and even dirt surfaces.  

Luckily I saw the hotel in the distance, less than a block walk.

The clerk was very helpful.  I asked about a concierge and she said that the front desk agents were the concierges.  She provided great direction for sight-seeing in such a short amount of time, dinner recommendations, etc.

Around 5 PM, I headed out to explore the city.  I walked down the major shopping street - Neuve Nieuwstraat - however, with it being Sunday and after 5 PM, most everything was closed.  There was still a surprisingly good number of people out and about.  This street was taking me to the Grand Place (Brussels Town Hall along with a huge square) which is the biggest attraction in Brussels.  It was about a 25 minute walk - I ultimate did find a few souvenir shops open and got some postcards and a keychain to make into an ornament.

Within a few blocks to the Grand Place, many restaurants, chocolate shops, souvenir stores and bars were open and very busy.  The Grand Place was quite large...and well...Grand.  All four sides of this very large square are all part of the Grand Place.

I continued to walk around a bit more and found the famous fountain - Manneken-Pis.  I had seen the fountain on many postcards as I had been wandering through various souvenir shops.  From the postcards, it looked quite large and that there were multiple boys.  In reality, it was just one boy and surprisingly quite small.

Time for dinner...The dinner location the front desk clerk had recommended was in another square.  I was tired of walking and didn't feel like trying to find another square.  There were tons of places near by, so I found one that looked good - for mussels and fries.  

I got an outside table with an incredible view of the Town Hall tower.  I ordered mussels in white wine with fries.  The mussels were pretty good - not the best that I've ever had.  They were quite large and a huge amount of them.  Not much broth - I really had to create a hole to get to the broth.  There were huge pieces of carrots, onions and celery too which I didn't care for.  Surprisingly I ate all of them.  I didn't finish all of the fries - just too full.

From the restaurant, I headed back to the Grand Place - there was a big light and music show going on that I could partially see from my table.  Of course by the time I got to the square, it lasted about 3 more minutes.

After the show, I headed back to the hotel.  About a 20 minute walk back.  I went to bed shortly after returning.  

Sept 29, 2014:

Today I planned to take a train to Brugge around 2:15, so I had the morning to explore Brussels.  I was able to get a 2 PM checkout of the hotel, so don't have to worry about checking my bag.  Plus, with this time, I should be able to check into the hotel in Brugge as soon as I arrive.

I finally got ready by 10:15 and headed down to for breakfast - luckily it didn't end until 10:30.  

I walked back down the shopping street again towards the Grand Place.  All of the shops were open.  There was a different feel on the street - a mix of tourist and local business people starting their weeks.  I found it interesting that many of the clothing stores were changing their window displays...perhaps Monday is a big day to change displays.

I stopped in a few shops, but didn't buy anything.  Made my way to the Grand Place.  There were tons of school groups.  I took a few more pictures and moved on.

The guide from the hotel said that the best chocolate shops were in Grand Sablon area, so I headed that way.  It was a long 15 minute walk and all uphill.  Besides chocolate shops and numerous cafes, there was a large church and a lovely outdoor park area.  I think it is also near the Parliament building - I had heard that Parliament was in session and the police had many streets blocked off for several blocks around what I think was the Parliament building.

I decided on my Chocolatier and made a purchase of a lovely mixed box of chocolates.

From here I backtracked my steps - no need to get lost - to get back to the hotel.  

I stumbled on this bar with a great name...and thought of Dolores Brown!

I stopped at Paul for a small treat (this is a wonderful bakery that Bridget and I enjoyed numerous times in Paris!).

Back in the hotel, I figured out my orientation for Brugge and then headed out.

I took the metro one stop - using my unvalidated ticket from yesterday - and then got my ticket for Brugge.  I was cutting it very close.  The train left at 2:17 PM and the time stamp of my purchased ticket was 2:15 PM, plus I had to still walk to the train platform.  The metro was delayed many times...for just one stop.

The train ride to Brugge was just a little more than an hour.  Just off the train, then I purchased my next train ticket to Antwerp - not going to have another close call like today!

I knew that my hotel was a little more than a mile from the train station - much more than I am willing to walk with my luggage.  So I headed for the taxi stand.  

I got to the Best Western and check in was easy and fast.  The clerk was very friendly and the lobby was surprisingly nice.  I got in the elevator and everything turned to my worst Best Western nightmares.  This place had been highly rated on TripAdvisor and since I couldn't use points anywhere in town (no Hilton, Marriott or SPG properties) it seemed like a good option, close to the main square.  I will admit that the location was very close to the main square.  The hallway was dimly lit with dark carpet and musty smell.  I opened the door to my room and it just had that "motel" look and feel.  

I decided to head out and find post cards and an keyring.  As I'm about to leave the room, I notice a huge spider on the wall.  I try to kill it, but miss...so now a spider running loose in my room.  I zipped up everything and made sure nothing is on the floor.

I randomly explored the town for a while, stopping to take pictures.

Compared to other churches that I've seen on this trip, this one in Brugge was decorated quite sparingly:

I ended up in the main square and sat on a bench for about 30 minutes just people watching and enjoying the fall late afternoon.  There were horse and carriage rides going by frequently, tons of people taking pictures, friends meeting and folks strolling off to nearby cafes.

I walked back to the hotel having decided that I was going to have dinner near the hotel.  I ended up having spaghetti Bolognese at a restaurant about a block away.  

Back to the hotel, I posted the blog on Poland and then went to bed early around 10 PM.

Sept 30, 2014

I woke up after almost 12 hours of sleep, well refreshed!

I missed breakfast and the 11 AM checkout time was quickly approaching.  I had found the post office yesterday, even asking about shipping and getting the form to fill out in advance.  At 10:55 I went down to the front desk to ask if I could have 15 more minutes in the room - I was packing a box to ship...otherwise I could do it in the middle of the lobby.  She said no problem.

I had put the box together, so there was unpacking of every bag to get out all of the potential items to ship...and then the repacking of them.

I did a great packing job.  There were still a few things that wouldn't fit, but probably the most full box I've sent back.  All other times I show up at the post office with what I think will fit, but then end up having extra space, but nothing else with me to ship.  With this box, I still couldn't fit the glass bowl and ornament from Venice and the ornament from Berlin.  I have a feeling those are going to be in tow until the bitter end.

I came down to the lobby with my bags and box...and she seemed to acknowledge that I was telling the truth about the box.  I stored by big bag and backpack and she helped me fill out the postal form.

In a few minutes I was off to the post office.  The walk was very quick - obviously I took the long way yesterday.  There was no line...I still had to take a number and was called up within 15 seconds.  The clerk was very nice and friendly.  She asked me if I knew how much it was going to cost...uh oh, not a good sign.  I said around 40 euros...that I've shipped other packages of the same size from all over Europe and they've been about 40 euros.  She said 65.60 euros!  Ugh.  It was much heavier than any other box - over 6 kg.  Obviously I did a very good packing job!  This box included all of my guide books of Europe, so can understand the weight.  I'm considering that I also paid for the ease of shipping - packing the box in my room, no waiting at the post office, no language issues at the post office.  Might be stretch that the convenience is worth 25 euros.

I walked around the square a bit.  I looked into going into the tower, but there was a wait, plus you had to buy a ticket.  I tried going into a Historium, but it seemed completely ridiculous and an awful tourist trap.  

I sat in the square and just enjoyed people watching again.  Very relaxing.

I started walking back to the hotel, thinking that I wanted to find a bakery to get a muffin or croissant.  Surprisingly the many blocks that I walked there was not one bakery.  I remembered the grocery store I strolled through yesterday and was near the hotel, so I headed there.

I got a croissant and a Coca Light...and then with all of the extra room in my suitcase I got a curry katsup that I've been thinking about buying since Berlin, some cocktail napkins and some butter cookies of the brand that I had on the Brussels Airlines flight.

I sat at the front of the store and enjoyed the croissant...until a group of about 10 teenaged boys took over the table next to me.  I couldn't understand the language they were speaking, but I got the feeling that they were being as crude and rude as I'd expect from a group of American boys.  They were whistling and calling out to girls, then started passing around one iPhone to watch a porn video.  Wow...just seeing that made me think about the challenges that today's parents have.  There's so many more "dangers" especially with technology.

From here I headed back to the hotel, ready to head to the train station.  There was a train at 2:17 and it was around 1:15 at this point.

The hotel called for a cab and it arrived rather quickly.  I was at the train station within about 15 minutes...so just waited and watched the board.

Finally my platform was posted and I headed that way.  The ride was going to be about 1.5 hours and the cabin car was not very full.

The train ride was pretty uneventful - just wrote in my journal.

When I arrived at the Central Station in Antwerp, I found it very large and very beautiful.  I later found out that it was declared either the #1, #2, #3 or #4 most beautiful train stations in the world - depending on the publication source.  In Antwerp it is joking called The Railway Cathedral.

After much hunting, I found the international ticket office to buy my ticket for Amsterdam.  Luckily no lines there compared to the domestic ticket line.  But wow, the ticket to Amsterdam was quite expensive for only a 75 minute ride.

Next was a cab after the agent told me that my hotel was a long 20 minute walk from the station.  Luckily, a very full queue of taxis waiting.

The ride to the hotel was a bit longer than expected - almost 10 minutes...so I bet longer of a walk.  I was upgraded to a junior suite with a welcome gift - big bottle of Belgium beer and box of Belgium chocolates.

Thought I should go out and see some of the city.  However, I did some work on researching what is happening in Hong Kong and what to do about it since I'm scheduled to go there on Oct 11.

I explored the Old City areas - the Cathedral of Our Lady,  Grote Market, City Hall and Church of Saint Charles Borromeo.  There were tons of little cafes with outside seating.

Cathedral of our Lady:

City Hall:

I went back to the hotel and asked for dinner recommendations from the front desk.  They offered a nearby place called Het Vermoeide Model - said concierge had gone recently and it was very good and not touristy.

Given the time, I went to the concierge lounge.  I had Coca Light, a little cheese, and two warm things - a meat pastry thing and a pesto tart.  I went back for seconds on all of it.

A nighttime view of the Cathedral from the concierge lounge deck:

I went back to my room and before I knew it, it was about 9:15.  I wasn't really hungry but thought that I should eat something more.  I headed out to the recommended restaurant.  I found it easily and was told to go to the second floor.  No server or other employees were there, so I seated myself.  It was a table for four, but there were many tables open and the only tables for two were right next to other people in small little nooks and crannies.

A server came down and told me I had to move to a table for two.  I was surprised and showed my surprise - really - multiple groups of four people are going to come in for dinner at 9:35 PM that you'll need all these tables?  I moved to the table for two and was staring at two girls who were surprised I was forced to move.  He brought over the menu and bread.  I was fuming and was thinking that I wasn't really hungry.  Within about 45 seconds, I got up, grabbed my bag and jacket and walked out.  

I walked back to the hotel...still not hungry...and went to bed.

Oct 1, 2014:

I got up - a bit later than I had planned - seems to be a reoccurring sentence  when I'm traveling by myself - but I'm on vacation and can do whatever I want!  Plus I'm just assuming that is my body telling me that I needed more sleep.

I knew that I wanted to get on the city trolley at 10:30 to see a loop of the city, get a haircut and then head to the train station for my ride to Amsterdam.

I was taking my time when I realized that it was 9:45 and I wasn't in the shower.  I raced through the shower, got ready and packed.  Surprisingly, with speed walking, I made it to the trolley at exactly 10:30.  I was the only person there.  Not the biggest tourist attraction I suppose.  I only had a 50 euro bill, so I took all of his change.  He was telling me I could get off at each of the 5 stops and he would be back in an hour.  I asked - can't I just stay on the whole time?  He said yes, somewhat suspiciously.

When we were about to leave a woman from Australia walked up to ride along.  She didn't have change either.  She was able to count out 9 euros for the 10 euro ride, so I gave her 1 euro since I was the reason he didn't have enough change.

The trolley "tour" was pretty rudimentary.  There were only 6 stops and two of them were the same (the beginning and end points).  The "audio" tour was actually a video showing at the front of the trolley, but it was in Dutch, so I had to read the subtitles in English...somewhat missing the view out the window.  After the first video for the first 7 or 8 minutes, then it switched to more like a series of promotional videos for Antwerp - about the Diamond District, the shipping District, etc.  I have much information about the highly skilled labor force in Antwerp in case anyone is thinking about relocating a business to there.  With just me, the trolley driver and the woman from Australia, then I started talking to the trolley driver asking him what certain buildings were, etc.  He was more informative than the video and wasn't subtitled.

After the ride, I walked around the Grote Market - during the day it is more like a big flea market.  Lots of old stuff, none of which could fit in my suitcase.

I started searching for a hair salon for possibly the last haircut of the trip!  First was a salon that was voted best of Antwerp - 35 euros for a men's cut...no thank you (plus they didn't have any openings until late afternoon); next was a barber shop - only 20 euros, but was a wait and wasn't sure if I was ready for a barber shop experience.  The winner was a smaller salon with one guy working.  He was friendly - and I later learned was also 40.  I thought he looked much older than 40...perhaps I look much older than I think that I do.  I often wonder if I have a misconception of what 40 "looks like".  Regardless, I had stopped here first, but he said it was a 15 minute wait and I didn't want to wait.  I swallowed my pride to return, but he was very nice and we chatted quite a bit.  He was very intrigued in my trip, asking tons of questions, including how much it was costing...which I avoided answering.  My hair is quite short...certainly got my money's worth.

I raced back to the hotel after my haircut.  I asked the front desk to arrange a cab.  I had about 15 minutes in the room and then headed down.

The cab driver, an extremely friendly female, was waiting.  I apologized for the size and weight of my bag.  I mentioned my trip and she was very interested and jealous.  She wanted to know all of the details.  She just kept saying - "3 months, wow."  

One more of the Antwerp station:

The station was busy, but I saw my platform was posted so I headed that way.  After a few minutes, my train was no longer posted on the platform.  It was only 1:18 for my 1:30 train and I got a little nervous.  I found a board - yes, still on this platform.  Finally the sign was corrected.  I never noticed where the train car numbers were posted on the platform, so I had to run to my cabin when the train arrived.

I got settled and this was probably the nicest of all train rides I had in Europe.  Plenty of luggage space, free lunch - with menu and choices, free wifi (although it never worked for me), free alcohol and all delivered to your seat.  Perhaps this is why the ticket was so expensive!

The ride to Amsterdam was too short!  Just a little over an hour.  I was probably too bold about Amsterdam - hadn't brought a map, hadn't researched where my hotel was (I had seen it when I was here before) and wasn't planning to do much since I had already been there and just staying one night.

Bike parking just outside the train station in Amsterdam - just one of many levels:

Once off the train, I started on the direction where I thought my hotel was located.  After a few blocks I started to question myself, but then suddenly there it was...perfect!

I got checked in and was upgraded to a junior suite.  I started researching more about Asia, texting, Facebook, etc.  Around 5:30, then I said I should go out.  First a stop in the executive lounge - a little free wine, some hummus, cheese and fried mashed potato thing.  I watched CNN about Hong Kong...looking worse and worse....these were first pictures that I was seeing about the protests and number of people.

On to explore a bit of Amsterdam.  I started on the street of my hotel.  Then on to the Red Light District...it is Amsterdam!  

I ended up at a small bar towards the north end of the Red Light District.  I settled in for a glass of wine on the outside patio.  An older man ended up sitting next to me.  There were several smokers, so I tried to deal with the smoke.

View from the patio:

After about 10 minutes, I started talking with the older man.  He was German, but had lived in Amsterdam for about 20 years.  He had lived/worked in Paris for a while as well.  He was intrigued by my trip.  Asked about how I had been received as an American through all of my travels.  I had not really thought much about this since the reception has been very positive.  He thought it would have been worse - he didn't think international opinion was as high for the US now.  We discussed politics a bit, Amsterdam, Europe, etc.  We both finished our drinks and were ready to leave.

I asked him for suggestions for dinner and he was almost at a lose.  My only restrictions - no Italian (had so much already) and no Thai (going to Thailand tomorrow).  Note to self and others - always have 2-3 favorite places in mind for anyone visiting your city - mine for the Minneapolis downtown core are Eli's (lower end), Zelo's (mid-range) and Vincent (high end)...and Murray's for steaks.  All are approachable, good locations, great food, wide selection, etc.

Back at the hotel, I asked the concierge for recommendations and he said all of the places just across the street from the hotel.  They looked very touristy and I mentioned as much.  He seemed to cast that off saying that they had all been there for years.

I ended up at the steak place - Toro Dorado.  Their big draw was meat from various countries.  I had two types of filets. One from Scotland one from New Zealand. I liked the Scottish one much more, but neither came close to Murray's, Mastro's, Capital Grill or numerous other places in the US.  I also asked for them to be cooked Medium...at best they were Medium Rare, so it was difficult for me to eat.  They came with a mushroom topping with blue cheese.  It was pretty good, but very rich.  I also got a side of steak fries and a glass of Argentinian Cabernet.  

Once back in the hotel, I checked out the lobby bar, but it looked expensive and not very busy.  So I headed to the room.  I ended up staying up very late doing research on the Asia portion of the trip.  Didn't head to bed until around 1:30 AM.