Beijing

The post below details my time in Beijing - Oct 14 - 17, 2014:

October 14, 2014:

Today I am traveling from Hong Kong to Beijing.  I had received a message from the hotel to allow four hours before my flight to travel to the airport due to the "traffic issues" (never mentioned the protests by name).  I targeted to leave the hotel by 9:30 since my flight was at 1:20; however, I got up later than planned and wanted to have breakfast in the lounge, so didn't leave the hotel until around 10:15.

I have become a pro at getting to the subway station through Pacific Place, passing all the incredible shops with outrageous prices.  I went one stop on the train and then the long, underground trek to Hong Kong station.

The line at the elevator to get to the airport train line was very long, so I asked if there was an escalator.  Luckily there was an escalator, so was at the train in record time.  The train was quite crowded, but got a seat.  Only 25 minute ride to the airport.  However, when we arrived doors on both sides opened and you had to know which terminal to decide which side to exit.  I exited to one side and tried to quickly read the board and thought I needed to go to the other side...so I raced back through the train to get to the other side.  Then I read the board more closely and realized that I needed to be on the other side (the wording on the board was horrible - it listed a ton of airlines, then in very small print - all others operate from the other terminal).  But the train was leaving, so I had to figure out how to get to the other side...luckily an elevator was nearby.

I found the China Southern desk after much effort and got checked in.  

Security was no issues and immigration was quick since a lane opened just as I got in line and I jetted over to that line.

I had $90 HKD burning a hole in my pocket and wanted to spend it.  However, every store was very high end.  I asked the information desk for a bookstore - I got a few postcards, some decorative tape and some post-it notes with my last bit of Hong Kong cash.

From here I went on to the lounge - another one that is not airline specific.  Had a Diet Coke, but no food - nothing was appealing.

I headed to the gate and they were already boarding!  So I went to the Premium, Business class line.  I was the only person to arrive in business class - had seat 01A.  The flight attendant came by to welcome me, give me the flying time, offer a drink, etc.  She also brought slippers, when I've come to love on flights!  The service was very specialized.  Once I was settled so came with drinks - I only ordered water, but she brought apple juice too.  She read the meal options - chicken, fish or beef.  I asked about the beef and she brought it out for me to see.  I went with the beef.  

An American couple arrived after a few minutes - seemed nice, but didn't talk with them.  They got the same treatment and ordered white wine.  The flight attendant seemed so surprised - really, wine now, before flight leaves?  The couple seemed equally surprised that they were questioned.  Not sure who they were, but later after landing, they were ushered through customs without having their bags x-rayed and then I saw them get in stretch Rolls-Royce car service.

The flight seemed very fast - 3 hours, but they made us shut down everything by less than 2.5 hours into it.  We were about 20 minutes early.

The beef was tasty, but very tough.  It had carrots and mashed potatoes.  The salad was not good and I didn't eat it.  The tomato basil soup was very good.  Dessert was served later - cream puffs as well as fruit.  

They gave me a small viewing device, I watched two videos in Chinese about Beijing and Shanghai, but nothing more.  

Upon landing, I was the first person off of the plane.  The first person at immigration (no issues) and the first person at baggage claim.  They had showed several harsh videos on the plane about not claiming items.  I was sweating it a little bit.  After my bag arrived, I tried to find the customs forms, but they were all in Chinese, so decided to just chance it.  Luckily no issues.

When I walked out, a friend of a friend - Ben - was not there yet to meet me.  Within minutes, Ben walked up with my name on a sign...I waved him down and we started outside.  My friend Barry (from the US) worked in Beijing for several years.  He provided me tons of information, contacts - including his driver which I used for several days and his good friend Ben...it made the trip to Beijing so much better and easier!

I thought he might just get me into a cab, but we went to his car and he drove me to the hotel.

Ben found the hotel quite easily.  We arrived around 6:15.  He was going to return at 8 to take me to dinner.

When I approached the desk and gave my name, the manager was working and she immediately took over.  She was so happy to have me arrive, said that they had been expecting me all day.  So excited to have a Platinum Premier stay with them.  She had all of my paperwork already in a leather portfolio.  She took a copy of my passport and ran my credit card, but then wanted to personally show me to the room.  She had the head bellman and concierge take my bags.

The room was incredible.  A suite on the 12th floor overlooking the Forbidden City.  I also learned that the hotel only opened as a Renaissance on Sept 1...they had taken over a local, high-end property.  Glad I made this last minutes change to a different hotel, using Marriott points.

The room and the entire hotel has been completely redone and looks great.  

I unpacked, tested text messaging and e-mail (it works!) and then headed to the Executive Lounge.  The lounge was huge, one of the largest I have ever seen.  The selection of appetizers was incredibly large was well too.   I didn't want to eat too much so that I would still be hungry for dinner.

Ben showed up at 8...but as we pulled out I realized that I forgot to bring Xu Tao's (the driver for the next few days - Ben was going to call to speak to him in Chinese to confirm pick-up times, etc) phone number.  I ran back up to the room to get it.

We went to a restaurant called The Great Wall.  We debated what to have.  We decided on Peking Duck and a sweet/sour shrimp dish along with greens that were similar to bok chow.

Dinner was good - I liked the duck and shrimp dishes much more than I expected.  I got a glass of red wine - the only one they had by the glass was "Greatwall", a local Chinese wine...it was barely drinkable at best.

We left the restaurant around 10 PM and got to the hotel around 11 PM after Ben got a little lost on the way back to the hotel.  

Off to bed by 11:30.

 

Early day on Wed - driver picks me up at 6:30 AM!

October, 15, 204

Today was my first full day in Beijing.  It started early with my alarm going off at 5 AM.  Of course I didn't get up until 5:45, so I'll be late for the 6:30 AM pick-up.  I got showered and dressed and off to the lounge around 6:25.  They were late getting out breakfast, so I just had water and a cheese danish...and took OJ, muffin and croissant with me in case I wanted more.

Xu Tau - the driver - was waiting in the lobby when I went down around 6:35 AM.

We hoped in the car, confirmed we were going to the Great Wall and then silence....for 1.5 hours!  I was trying to think of something to start the conversation, but was too tired and couldn't think of anything.  We rode together, just listening to the radio - a mix of English and Chinese songs.

Traffic was not bad and we got to the Great Wall location in about 1 hour and 20 minutes.  I fell asleep a few times.

There was some major discussions with the security guards when we arrived for parking.  Xu Tau thought we could drive further, but that must have changed since 2000 when he took Barry here.

He offered to walk with me to the ticket office.  He explained that his knees were very bad and the doctor told him to not walk too much and save his knees.  He apologized several times, saying that for a friend of Barry's that he should join me, but just couldn't.  We went to the ticket office - all uphill.  The ticket just to enter was $45 CNY.  Xo Tao explained that I could either walk up to the wall or take the tram.  I said I'd take the tram up and then walk down...but then I saw the walk...I'll take the tram both ways.  I didn't realize that it was such an adventure just to get to the Great Wall.

Xu Tao left me after the ticket check, so I had to figure out the tram ticket on my own.  There is very little English in this area and folks either don't speak or won't speak English.  Luckily he told me that the tram was $100 CNY, otherwise, I would have thought that they were inflating the price.

I stopped in the bathroom and saw the stand-up stall that I had only seen pictures of in the guide books.  There's a picture on the outside of the door demonstrating how to use it...I opted for another option and never got closer than this photo!

I got to the tram entrance and was put in a car initially by myself...but then 4 workers quickly got on before they closed the doors.  The workers all started talking Chinese, but was good with me taking pictures and even moved aside so I could get better photos out the window.

We got to the top and there was good signage....although there were some translation issues or perhaps purposedly harsh.  I loved the descriptions of people who were excluded from riding the tram:

  

I headed to the left.  I wasn't sure what to expect, but I think I always expected the Wall to be relatively flat, with a little up and down.  That was not the case at all - there are constant, extreme ups and downs - ramps, stairs (relatively flat stairs that were aggravating to climb as well as very steep stairs) and some "flat".  This section of the wall is famous for the number of watchtowers and the vast elevation change.  

The views from the Wall were amazing.  There is 96% vegetation coverage in this section of the Wall (according to the signs)...so tons of greenery and a wonderful start of fall color change (my first view of this season).  It was very nice to get here so early...I didn't see another person for a long time.  I had the entire Great Wall to myself!  So many wonderful pictures of the morning haze, sunrise and fantastic vistas.

At my goal point...but kept going...

As I walked along, I could see many sections of the upcoming wall sections.  I had set a goal to the watchtower I was going to climb/hike to....of course once I got there I wanted to go further.  I saw older, bigger folks climbing down and thought...I could totally do that if they could.  So of course I went past my goal. (Part of my goal setting was that I would go in the opposite direction to see more).

The next section beyond my original goal was quite intimidating...so steep and so many stairs.  I had to stop several times along the way.  The final staircase, equal to about 3 flights of steps was very intense - almost straight vertical and each step was about double the size of typical step rises.

Along the way I passed a few folks coming down - unfortunately one of them had left part of their camera at the top and only realized it about half way down...so he started back up to get it!

At the top, I had a cheering crew which I initially thought was other tourist, then quickly realized they were vendors.  She wanted to take my picture - no thank you; then to show me her products - no thank you.  I was so out of breathe and the altitude so different, the before I knew it, I was agreeing to a picture, with the China flag and then bought a set of Great Wall postcards for $100 CNY...talked down from $120.  That was crazy!  I had the conversion completely backwards in my head.  I was thinking that was around $5 US...but it was more like $20 US.  Argh...  I later learned from Xo Tao that any price I am quoted, I should drop by 75%.

The reward of the final climb:

There is more, but flag is covering the sign that says tourists can not proceed further:

I stayed at the top for about 15 minutes to enjoy the view, but more importantly to catch my breathe and let my pulse return to normal.

And the start back down:

This was the part that was beyond my initial goal.  The structure at the top of the hill is where I had the picture taken with the flag of China:

I started my decent and ran into multiple people who wanted to talk, ask about how much further, was it worth it, etc.  Two guys in particular were very talkative - one from Sydney and the other from Massachusetts.  The guy from Mass asked where I was from - I said, the US...he said, well, that's obvious, which city.  Duly noted!

As I got closer to the tram exit, it was around 10:15 and it was very crowded.  This was the type of crowds that I had expected.  As much as I hated getting up early, I'm very happy that I went early and missed this ridiculous crowd!  There were several school groups and I had to fight through their school pictures several times.  The American tourist that everyone hates - that's me today!  I'm sure I photobombed about 50 pictures.

I missed the exit to the tram, so went further than I planned.  The next section was all down steps for as far as I could see.  I went down a few before I realized this is not where I started, so I turned around.  I got enough of an impression of this route without actually taking it.

I took the tram back down the mountain - this time by myself.  I had to close and open the doors myself.  Good thing that I knew that and didn't go down the mountain with the huge doors open!

I followed the street down - with tons of wind and blowing dust to meet Xu Tau at the car.  He was sleeping, so had to wake him.  I guess there's not much else to do...seems like a great job!

I got in the car and started telling him about my hike....he just said - where to next?  

We headed to the Olympic Park next, from the 2008 Summer Olympics.  The Birds Nest looked huge from several streets away.  Xo Tao asked if I just wanted to drive by or go in...of course I wanted to go in!  It took a little bit for him to figure out how to get in - tons of closed roads, etc.  Finally we were at the tourist entrance and he let me out, saying to take my time.  He says that every time and I usually do.  I got my ticket after much confusion...the agent spoke virtually no English and couldn't explain the difference between all of the various ticket options...and not explanations on the board.  I got the VIP ticket since she said it would get me inside the Birds Nest.

The Olympic Park complex is huge!  The entrance where I entered is at the SE corner, with the Birds Nest, just north and west of the entrance.  It looked so close on the map and took me about 20 minutes to walk from the entrance of the Birds Nest.  There was no way that I'd make it to the Water Cube, the Gymnastics arena, the park, etc.  Walking up to the Birds Nest felt like walking up to the Dallas Cowboys new arena - it is huge!  It has water features outside and lots of areas that are completely blocked off...that contributed to the long walks.

I stopped outside for various pictures, but between shadows, closures and other obstacles, none of the pictures were great.  

Inside the main gate, it was confusing where to go.  Numerous sings talked about "exhibits" for various things, but the most I ever found was a collection of about 15 pictures for each event.  I did have full access to the lowest level, going all the way to the arena wall all the way around the stadium.  I never found the VIP entrance that promised more exclusive access.  Impressive architecture though!  However, it all seemed dirty...essentially that the Olympics ended in 2008 and they were merely keeping it open for folks to see, but nothing to keep it cleaned or relevant.

After many pictures inside the Birds Nest, then I went out to the Olympic Plaza.  There were a few displays showing upcoming events in 2014, all in flowers, but I'm not sure that any of them are actually in the Birds Nest.

The tower for the Olympic flame:

The Water Cube:

A few shots from another direction:

I walked back to the car and caught Xu Tau in a complete snooze again!

From the Olympic Park, we headed to an original Hutong.  My understanding of a Hutong is a collection of homes and businesses that sort of merge together into a larger neighborhood.  That was what this was...so mission accomplished.  This was the least impressive thing of the entire day.  I walked it several blocks, got approached several times for surveys, tours, pictures, etc.  I suppose a single Caucasian guy in the middle of Beijing outside of a tour group is sort of a target.  I just looked determined in my walk, a grimace look and keep moving along.

Entrance to the Hutong:

Walking in the Hutong:

Xu Tau was waiting just outside when I walked out!

From here we went on to the Silk Street Alley market.  This is a 6 story market that mostly sells clothes, but also teas, pearls, art, etc.  Tons of negotiating - Xu Tau's instruction was to always go 75% off their price.  He explained that the Chinese price was 80% less than the foreigner price...and to never get attached to anything.  In the end, I bought two pairs of jeans, a shirt, some post card sets, 3 key chains (for Christmas ornaments), and a pound of tea.  Was more expensive than the Vietnam market, but seemed like better quality and was a much better environment.

I told Xu Tau to drop me off at the hotel after the market.  I had the biggest urge to call him Jeeves - I think that is from a movie.  He didn't get my joke....something lost in the translation when I proclaimed...take me back to the palace, Jeeves!

It was at least a 20 minute drive and he dropped me off around 4:30.  I went up, tried on my new clothes, and waited until 5:30 when the lounge would open.

I drank and ate all night in the lounge!  Wine, food, more wine, water, more food, more wine, more wine, more food and water...etc, and repeat!  They certainly got to know me tonight.

Back to the room at 10 PM when the lounge was closing...and off to bed around 11:15 after finishing today's journal!

October 16, 2014:

I surprisingly woke up before my alarm, but still ended up getting up later than my goal time of 7 AM.  Finally out of bed around 7:15.  Around 7, I did get up, but got back in bed with my iPad to read e-mails.

I had a very quick breakfast in the lounge and headed to the lobby.

Xu Tau - the driver - was waiting in the lobby when I went down around 8:10.

We hoped in the car, confirmed we were going to the Summer Palace and then not as much silence as yesterday....but still some!  We talked about what else to do for the day - the Palace, the Imperial Garden (recommended by Ben - I had to show Xu Tau the name of it several times and then enter it in his phone for the translation - he had never heard of it.)...then the Temple of Heaven and another market - one focused on Pearls.

We arrived at the Summer Palace in about 45 minutes.  He dropped me off and showed me where he would be parked.  I told him I would be about 2 hours.  As always, he told me to take my time.

I bought my ticket as well as an audio guide.  In every other city across the globe, the audio guide works by you entering a number that is posted next to the item/place you are seeing.  Of course not here - it worked on some sort of GPS, but you had no map to know which direction to move for the tour or which buildings had recordings.  I didn't buy a map along with my ticket - really, you don't get a free map with a $60 CNY entrance fee?  Plus the audio guide was $40 CNY...and still no free map.  I assumed it was be rather logical and several large maps posted throughout - not so much.  I wandered around somewhat aimlessly between map postings and the audio guide would start randomly playing...usually as I was leaving the building.  To say I was a little annoyed is an understatement.  And the vast number of people...perhaps all 30 million people of Beijing were visiting the Summer Palace today.

But I don't want to be completely negative...the Summer Palace was gorgeous, so picturesque.  There was a very large lake and numerous buildings for viewing.  Over the years, the emperors had many buildings added, some for their private quarters, some for entertaining, some for worshipping, etc.  The central landmark for the Palace grounds is the Tower of Buddhist Incense.  You can see if from most places within the Palace grounds.  It was quite an effort to climb the steps there...but there is an ancient saying that those who climb to the top will live to be 100 years old.  So that's my part for combatting my elevated cholesterol level!  

There was also the Long Gallery which has been designated the longest gallery in the world.  All of it is outside, but there are exquisite scenes painted on the rafters and all wood pieces - both for decoration, but also for protecting the wood from rotting.  I walked a bit more than half of the Long Gallery within about 25 minutes.

Part of the Long Gallery:

When I was nearing my 2 hour mark, I found a map - I had visited all of the key buildings and most of the buildings overall, but still have a large portion of the grounds to explore....but that would be taking me further and further from the exit that I needed.  By this time - around 11:15 - the Palace grounds were packed with school kids and tons of tour groups, with guides on loud speakers.  I had seen enough and headed for the exit.  It took about 20 minutes of solid, fast walking to get to the entrance.

The Tower of Buddhist Incense:

Entrance opposite the Tower of Buddhist Incense:

A side tower along the hike to the top:

View from the top:

I followed the way to the parking lot where Xu Tau said he would be waiting.  He was out of the car, but saw me approaching so waves and we met at the car.

Off to the Imperial Garden next.  Xu Tau told me on the way that in his 51 years in Beijing, he had never been to the Imperial Garden...oh great!  Must not be that great.  He was a little apprehensive in finding it.

Luckily he found it and he walked me part of the way to the ticket office.  I wish he would have walked me the entire way since all of the boards were in Chinese.  I ended up just buying the most expensive ticket since I wasn't sure which one I needed to get.  I was flattered though when the agent asked if I was a student...hahaha, yeah!

I started walking around the Gardens.  There was lots of green, but not tons of flowering items.  It was interesting, the few flowers they had were still in pots - not planted in the ground.  Many of the flowers were dying and not very colorful.  I found it funny that many Chinese people were taking very close-up pictures of the dying flowers.

I initially thought the signage in the Gardens was good, but ultimately decided that it was not so great.  I probably saw about a third of the Gardens - several peaceful areas, opportunities for boat rides and overall just enjoying nature.  I did stop and just sit on benches a few times - reflecting on my trip, on life, on my return to work...so many things crossing my mind.  I was reminded again, how I've not just sat back and reflected on life and things as I had expected to do.  The trip has been virtually non-stop and living in the moment...I hope that my last remaining weeks are more insightful and reflective.

After about 1.5 hours in the Garden, then I headed out to meet Xu Tau.  He was near the car again.  I told him that I needed lunch...and mentioned McDonald's, Pizza Hut or KFC since I've seen them every where.  Sure enough, he said that there was a McDonald's next to the Pearl market which was across the street from the Temple to Heaven.  He suggested that we go there, have lunch, go to the market for shopping and then to the Temple.  If I bought some pearls, they would need time to make the items - which could be while I was in the Temple.

It was about a 45 minute ride to the Pearl Market area...and I feel asleep several times.  I headed off to McDonalds for lunch...no English on the menu.  Finally the cashier pulled out a laminated menu with some English and I just had to point.  Double cheeseburger, fries and Coke Zero...no Coca Lite here....and not single cheeseburgers.  I am so grateful for the international consistency of McDonald's!

When I finished lunch, then Xu Tau said we had to move the car.  I jumped in and we headed to the parking garage.  From there, we talked about the approach for the Pearl market.  My friend Barry has a friend who owns a shop in the market.  Xu Tau suggested that we go there last.  First see prices in the other shops for Pearl cufflinks.  Of course many of them quoted very high prices, but then Xu Tau talked with them and he would tell me their very lowest price, then we would move on.  I wasn't wild about anything that I had seen thus far.  Barry's friend's shop - they were very nice.  I got to pick the exact pearls for the two pairs of cufflinks - one pair more white and one pair more gray/black.  Both were saltwater, so not perfectly round.   I then go to watch her make the cufflinks, so that was pretty cool....but of course after we had negotiated the price.  

The cufflinks didn't take long to make, so we waited and watched.

From here we headed down on level to look at clothes.  We started talking with one person about belts and she was incredibly persistent.  I had talked her down to $300 CNY for two belts, but then Xu Tau was shaking his head.  I tried to get away numerous times, but she and her assistant were very aggressive, keeping a strong hold on my arm, evening hurting me.  She was screaming that she was a simple working girl and had met my price...blah, blah, blah.  Once I finally escaped, she still continued to call after me.  It went down to $150 for two belts, but I couldn't tell anyone...she was screaming it.

Barry had another friend who had a purse and belt shop.  They were just a few stalls over so saw the entire exchange.  I ended up getting 3 belts from them for $200 CNY (around $32 US).

Everyone wanted to sell me purses and wallets and bags.  I looked at the catalogs at two places, but ultimately decided that I didn't need another bag.

We went down to the 1st level, but I didn't buy anything - nothing all that appealing.  I did look at some teas, but Xu Tau pulled me away saying that quality was very bad and was too expensive.

Xu Tau walked me across the major street to the Temple of Heaven - this was my first time crossing a major street in Beijing and it was frightful.  Even though there was a cross walk - one of the few I've seen in Beijing, cars/buses/bikes/motorcycles dodn't respect it.  He grabbed me by the arm and explained that he was my body guard.  Too bad that my body guard had us start crossing late in the light cycle, so about half way over he just said - run!  He had offered to take my belt and cufflink purchases to the car and was already carrying them.  In the run across the street, the bag broke!  I looked back as buses were approaching Xu Tau and he was gathering my belts and pearl cufflinks.  Luckily he got them all and survived without incident.

Xu Tau directed me to the ticket office and explained a little since most everything was in Chinese.  I got the thru-ticket which included entrances to all of the additional areas.  I am amazed every time how large these places of the emperors' are.  This complex is many, many acres in the middle of the city.  It is a place where the emperor would come to offer sacrifices for a big crop in the spring and then again in the fall to show appreciation for the crop.  There are multiple buildings - for praying, for preparing the sacrifices, for offering the sacrifices, for changing the emperor's clothes, for the emperor to fast, etc, etc.

As I initially started walking, there was a long gallery where many local, older Chinese people were playing cards.  They had come prepared with leather or clothes to cover the concrete railing and it appeared to be very regular groups playing cards together.

There was a new part of my ticket for almost every new section that I visited - glad I bought it all at once, otherwise, you had to wait in line at each new area to buy for that particular section.

Quite honestly all of the buildings started to look the same.  I went to most of the sections. At one point there was a long line to see inside one of the buildings.  There was a Chinese woman behind me in line and kept her hand on my back.  It was really annoying me.  My breaking point was when the line moved a few inches to the right of us and she tapped my back and pushed me several times to move along....expect the line directly in front of me didn't move.  So I reached back and slapped her hand away pretty aggressively.  She got the hint and didn't touch me again.  Even after the line, we saw each other several more times...she would always look away.  Ah, my new role as the mean Caucasian.

I had told Xu Tau that I would only be about 1-1.5 hours.  It was nearing the 1.5 hour mark, so I headed back to the entrance, plus I was tired and ready for the day to end.

I had to cross the major street by myself, which I did with no issues.  I just "drafted" along with the locals and inched my way over.  Since we were crossing about 8 lanes, you just take a few lanes at a time and wait in the middle of the road.

I saw a few ATMs as I was walking to the Pearl market to meet the driver.  I tried the first one and could never get English, so cancelled the transaction.  The next one I tried said I had entered the wrong PIN...that's odd since I knew I had entered the correct PIN.  I found Xu Tau and told him I needed another ATM and that I had issues with the previous ones.  We found another one, it offered English, but again said I had entered my PIN incorrectly.  I really started to get worried - had my number been stolen from the first ATM or yesterday?  Luckily I still had enough money to pay Xu Tau, was just getting money for later and for Friday.

We drove back to the hotel, luckily very little traffic, even at 5 PM.  Xu Tau told me how lucky I was with the traffic.  He offered for any friends or family visiting Beijing that he would be their driver.  When he found out that I was going to be by myself on Friday, he offered that I could call him anytime or have a taxi driver call him for instructions/directions.  I thanked him numerous times for his help, paid him and we said our good-byes.  

In the hotel, I tried another ATM and everything was fine.  Checked my account on-line and not strage withdraws...not sure the issue at the other places.  I then packed away my new purchases - after trying on my LV belts to discover that they were too big - I'll need to have more holes added.

I went to the lounge and enjoyed appetizers and wine before heading down to change for dinner with Ben.  When I first arrived, two different attendants asked me about what I wanted to drink...so I ended up with two glasses of wine sitting on the table when I arrived back with my food.

I went down to the lobby right at 8 PM and Ben was waiting.  We walked to the subway station and was off to dinner.  We had to transfer trains too.  The number of train lines in Beijing is incredible - about 20 different lines and so many transfer points.

The walk after we arrived at final station was much longer than I was expecting.  The restaurant was on the top/4th floor of a very modern, outdoor shopping mall.  The atmosphere was very nice and we had a window table that looked down on the mall.  I kept getting distracted with the view.  

When we sat down, he asked if I wanted a drink...of course!  We both ordered juices - I got grape lime.  It was much sweeter than I expected...figured with the lime it would be more tart.  Ben ordered one with a fruit I had never heard of - green orange, I think.  

For dinner we shared three dishes - pork with herbs wrapped in a banana leaf, grilled beef with mushrooms and a fish - Turbot.  The pork was my favorite, but was very spicy, but also a great lemongrass flavor.  There were small red chilies on top which made it so spicy.  The beef was very tough.  The Turbot came out as a full fish with tail and face included, so that turned me off.  Ben picked out a few bites for me and it was pretty good.  But he had told me that there would be lots of bones and that the Chinese were very good about picking around them or pulling the bones out of their mouth.  The bones part completely turned me off on the fish and I didn't eat any more!

After dinner we were off to Mesh.  It wasn't a very long walk.  Mesh is essentially a lobby bar in the hotel called The Opposite House.  It reminded me of a very trendy W hotel bar.  We arrived at 10:15 PM and it was packed.  No space inside and we headed outside to the patio.  

After drinks, I asked him to help me get a cab back to the hotel.  He said that we could share one and drop me off first.  So much easier said than done.  We left the bar around 11:35.  We finally got in a car around 12:15.  We tried near the hotel/bar for a while with no luck.  Then we walked to a major intersection and still no luck.  It was obvious that the American technique of waving down or whistling for a taxi was not used...people put out their hands, barley higher than their waist and wiggle their fingers.  After more useless time there, we crossed the street and ultimately another street.  By the last one, I was quite angery.  I can't believe in a city of 30M+ people. there's so few available taxis.  

Ben found a cab - who refused our fare, but then a private car next to it agreed to the fare.  Ben got in, motioned for me and I joined.  Ben was in the front, me in the back (funny - most people in China ride in the front with the driver.)  Luckily my hotel appeared in a few minutes.  

Off to bed around 1 AM.

October 17, 2014:

I had planned to get up at a reasonable time and get my day going since it was my last full day in Beijing.  However, the bed was so comfortable, that I didn't get up until around 9:00, looked at e-mails for a while, etc.  Finally showered and ready by around 10, then to the lounge for breakfast.  I was finally heading out for the day around 11.

I stopped by the Navigator desk to ask about a taxi for Saturday morning - very early at 5 AM.  He also suggested that I not walk to Tian'anmen Square - too far and as a foreigner I could get lost!

Jefferson (the lead bellman) got me a taxi and I was off.  It was much further than I had expected, so very glad that I had taken a taxi.

Jefferson had told the taxi driver to drop me off at the South Entrance, so that I could be walking North through the Square, into The Forbidden City and the gardens beyond.  That was a great suggestion.  Where the taxi dropped me off, I had to cross a huge street - about 7 lanes.  Then there was a security check to get into the square.  There was a moderate line, but there was much pushing and shoving to go thru security into the square.  It was just a bag security and then random people were selected to go through a metal detector.  

Some wonderful light post decoration inside the Square:

Once inside, I was floored by how large the square it - it is huge.  I thought I read some where that it could accommodate over 1 million people.  There were many, many thousands of people there and the square still looked rather empty.  It was so large I couldn't get it all into a panoramic picture...not even half of it.

Monument to the People's Heroes:

Mao Zedong Masoleum:

It is surrounded by buildings on each side - the National Museum, Mao Zedong Masoleum, Great Hall of the People and the Gate of Heavenly Peace.  Each of the first three looked very large.  In the middle of the square is the Monument to the People's Heroes.  There was also a large flower display as well as a flower "monument".  Both looked like they were only temporary and might change with the season.

There were tons of vendors trying to sell pictures of you in front of each of the major buildings.

I was a little confused on which direction to go.  While I was dropped off on the southern-ish side, it wasn't exactly clear which way to go towards the Forbidden City.  Luckily the bigger map I had brought with me, had a detailed portion of The Forbidden City and the Square and I was able to match up the National Museum to get my bearings.

The Gate of Heavenly Peace to enter the Forbidden City was across another very large road - about 8 lanes - but I found an underground tunnel.  Once on the other side, it was clear where to go, but I kept getting approached by random people offering me a shortcut through some side doors.  I just kept walking.

Gate of Heavenly Peace:

After passing through the initial gates, then I was approached many, many times for a private tour guide.  Most of the people seemed pretty sketchy, but then I noticed many people negotiating with the private guides and considered that the visit could be more informative with a guide.  A few more approached and I gauged interest based on their English and somewhat on price.  I finally selected Cindy - her English was very good and only $200 CNY, plus the entrance fee for both of us.  She also explained that once through the next gate, the regular lines to buy tickets would be about 20-30 minutes and she could buy them at the special tour guide window.  Sure enough, she was correct, when we went through the next gate, the queue lines for individual people was very long.  But no one in line at the tour guide window.

Cindy have me tons of history about the Forbidden City and China in general.  She was a wealth of knowledge and I'm very pleased that I hired her as the guide.  She mentioned all the nuances like: 

- Roof colors (Yellow could only be used where the emperor lived, green was for the prince when he had to move out of the city; gray was for common people.  There was one other color, but I can't remember for who or what color)

- Who was allowed to live and visit the Forbidden City (only the Emperor, the Empress, their young children and the Emperor's concubine could live there; high ranking officials could visit for daily business, the Emperor's family could visit, but only the females could stay overnight.  When the Emperor's sons reached age 13, they had to move out since only one man - the Emperor - could sleep inside the City...even the guards, etc left.  Servants could stay and the males ones were munichs, so not considered a real man)

- How many emperors lived there (24, I think), etc.

- How many rooms - originally 9,999 - one less than the Gods have in heaven, but over the years, some of the structures burned and when rebuilt, the rooms were combined.  When the site was listed as a UNESCO heritage site, the room count was over 8,000

- How long it took to build - only about 8 years, I think...it was very short for how big it is.  

- How many people constructed it - over 100,000 people

- There are no nails used in any of the construction

- Much of the painting was redone in anticipation of the Olympics - the remaining buildings are still to be repainted (adhering to the original colors), but still trying to raise funds.

There were tons of people in The Forbidden City, but luckily she routed us through good ways, with fewer traffic.  There was only one spot in particular where I remember getting pushed pretty significantly.

Many of the rooms and buildings are not open to the public, so Cindy steered us to exactly which ones we could visit.

A few shots inside the Forbidden City:

When we got to the end, she said there is Jingshan Park with a Temple and Budda at the top which had fantastic views of the city.  The mountain is fake - it was built with the dirt from digging the moot that surrounds the Forbidden City.  She had mentioned that there was also a tea experience as well as a Calligraphy master.  I passed on the tea, but wanted to see the Calligraphy master and exhibit.

I paid for our entrance to the park. We walked through the very peaceful park for a while and ended up at the Calligraphy master's studio.  I was pressured immediately to buy something.  I wanted a Chinese character artwork, but didn't want to pay that price...of course it was negitiable.  Even better I got to watch him make it and he added my name in Chinese characters on one side.  The Calligraphy master is from the Emperor's family - and he created the calligraphy signs that were used for the Olympics.  The character I bought was of "Happiness" - it has multiple meanings - happiness in your home, with your family, with your job, with your success, etc.  Luckily they had a box to protect it for the trip home.

After the Calligraphy area, then Cindy walked me to the start of the climb to the Temple...and then she left!  

I made the tough climb to the top.  The view was spectacular.  The pollution was the worst today of my entire trip, so many of my pictures look a bit hazy.  

There were tons of people at the top in the temple, so constant struggle and shoving to get pictures.

Great display as I was leaving:

When done, I walked down the West side of the temple, to head to another park - Beihai Park.  The walk down was much easier!

As I exited, there was a small street with many very local shops before getting to the Beihai park. In the shops there was only Chinese, only locals buying nuts, fruits, shoes, etc.

Some fruit on a stick in the local area:

I entered the Beihai park - after paying the $15 ticket.  I think the park could be very peaceful, but again, was overrun with people. 

I've noticed that the Chinese people don't care where they are - they shout, the talk over people, they shove, they push.  I have always thought this was being rude...I've now learned that those are completely acceptable actions in China.  No one seems to care and it is expected.  Every staircase, every escalator, even walking down the sidewalk is a struggle and a way to toughen your mental and physical stance.  Ultimately, I'm not a fan.

One of the funniest and strangest things I saw at the park and that I have seen several times - are small boys - probably around 1 - 2 years old...big enough to walk...and their pants have a big slit along their butt.  The boys aren't wearing a diaper or underwear and their little butts are completely exposed.  I'm not sure why this is...perhaps trying to potty train, perhaps trying to save on diapers, perhaps trying to teach them to squat to use the restroom.  

Shortly after entering the park, I saw a food station with Lay's chips, so I got a bag and found a bench, in a quiet area.  I enjoyed the views, the water, the peace and quiet...finally time to really relax and think.

I walked further in the park and ultimately took a big golf cart north to the top of the park.  I had not planned it, but lucked out with seeing the Nine Dragons Screen and the Heavenly King Hall.

Detail from Heavenly King Hall:

The Nine Dragons Screen:

By this point I was getting quite tired and decided to call it day.  I walked out and took the subway.  The map was a bit misleading about the proximity of the station.  I ended up walking about 20 minutes to get to the station.  I even stopped and asked a police man, then a magazine stand cashier and finally a local if I was heading in the right direction.  Finally I started seeing signs.

I had to change trains, but overall the ride was pretty quick.

As I walked back to the hotel, I decided to pass the hotel and head to the market area that is supposed to have a major food area.  It must have been too early as there were no vendors with spiders and scorpions out yet.

Since I didn't find the spiders on a stick for dinner, then I headed back to the hotel.  I repacked my suitcase and backpack with recent purchases, thinking about potential weight issues for my last non-Delta flight.

At 5:45, I headed off to lounge - the lights of Tian'anmen Square and Beihai Park made so much more sense now.  The Forbidden City was completely dark.  I stayed in the lounge until about 10:45, having my dinner, dessert and wine.  The hostesses were as pleasant as always.

There were a group of 3 women from Norway sitting at the table next to me.  We ended up talking for several hours.  One of them works for SAS Airlines and had been an exchange student to the US in 1980 in Indianapolis.  The three of them had traveled extensively together, sometimes with their husbands, most of the time not.  They were all in their 50's.  We talked about travel, Christmas trees, condo renovations (with me showing them numerous pictures of both), hotel and airline status, etc.  They were very interested in my blog site, so I gave them the address and we talked about getting together in Shanghai since that was the next stop for both of us.

We said our good-byes to the lounge staff.  The three women got a wonderful, hand-written card, but I got nothing.  I headed back to my room and got in bed.  I was close to falling asleep when there was a door bell chime...I ultimately got up, found a rope in the closet and answered the door...it was a girl from the lounge with a hand-written note for me....saying how much they loved my smile and how I smiled so much at all of them.  A very nice touch, just not at a knock on my door at 11:15 PM.

While I often talk about the missteps or unexpected interactions in this blog, there have been many, many wonderful interactions with local people around the globe.  A warm, genuine smile will work wonders and often solicits smiles back from other people too.  I have been at the mercy of many wonderful, caring people along this journey and I certainly appreciated their smile, helpfulness and English as much as I hope that they appreciated my smile, caring and gratefulness.  There have also been numerous "friends" of the moment, of the hour or of the day during my travels.  Most often in hotel lounges or on tours together, but it has been nice to have lengthy conversations about our respective travels, suggestions for sites to visit or just to commiserate common travel struggles.  

Finally off to sleep...with an early wake-up call coming!