Today I was awakened by the sound of rain on the roof and windows of my room. My room at the Casa Cool Beans is on the top floor and has cathedral ceilings. There are windows at the foot and one side of the bed, so not surprising that the rain interrupted my slumber. Since I was changing hotels and planning a day at the beach, the rain forced plan B - which immediately was to sleep longer! Any one who knows me well, knows that I love to sleep, so this choice was hardly surprising.
After getting ready and mostly packing, I headed down for a leisurely breakfast. Many of the other guests were having to rethink their plans for the day due to the rain, so the B&B owner was quite busy assisting with alternatives. I just needed to get to the beach area, maximizing the time that I had at the B&B.
I carried my bags down 3 flights of steps - I have a feeling I'm going to either build some muscles or throw out my back dealing with my 60+ lb bag plus backpack.
I had to wait as Lance helped several arriving guests before I could check out. As promised he had a metered taxi waiting and I was off to Ipanema.
A street vendor saw us getting my bags out of the taxi and proactively rang the bell for Casa Cool Beans Flat. Pedro, the manager arrived at the door just as I had all of my bags on the sidewalk, so no waiting.
Luckily Pedro took charge of my big bag which was great since my room is on the top floor - either four or five flights, I lost count.
The property is very different than the one in Santa Teresa. It felt much more like NYC, with an amazing beach just a block away. There's only two rooms per floor. Incredible marble stair cases for the entire building. My room is a suite - the welcoming room has a small table and chairs and a kitchen sink along with the closet. The bedroom with two twin beds pushed together, then the bathroom with a shower stall, PLUS a clothes washing sink and area to dry clothes. It still seems too early in the trip to be doing laundry...although I have worn the same pair of shorts for three days now.
After unpacking and getting settled, I loaded my pockets with camera, sunglasses (ever the optimist), wallet and umbrella. My compulsive pocket check is getting rather complicated with the daily adjustments.
Due to the weather, I headed in the opposite direction of the beach, towards the lake and onwards to the Jarbim Botanico (Botanical Garden). I knew the walk would be about 45 min, so about 2.5 miles. With the recent rain, the weather was very humid and slightly uncomfortable to walk that far...the lake also had a very off-putting odor, which I decided to contribute to the rain as well. After about 35 min, I was expecting signs or visual clues. Finally there were road signs. I followed the signs for a while, but then seemed to going further and further away. I stopped and asked a Police Officer - no Ingles. I went a few more blocks and asked another Police Officer - again, no Ingles, but I tried a little Portuguese and he used hand signals. Ah, hand signals, the international language. Luckily I wasn't far away, but had passed the target.
Early on in the walk to the Botanical Gardens:
Along the way I also stopped at a local grocery store to look around. Many interesting items, but also incredibly expensive. Lance had explained this morning that Rio is VERY expensive - and I thought it had just been the places that I chose. He said the lower class is starting to demonstrate quick heavily - prices are continuing to rise and most can barely afford to buy enough food for their families. The government is evidently quite wealthy with oil and gold reserves, but the people are suffering. Even basic electric and water services are unstable. Lance said that the B&B's will randomly be without electric or water for a day or two...the favelas could be without for 1-2 weeks at a time.
But back to the Botanical Garden...
Within 10 minutes of giving up, I finally found the entrance. Entrance fee was 6 reals and came complete with a long line to pay. I also had difficulty understanding how to use the turn-stall with the card that they gave me. I tried at least 7 or 8 times before the guard stepped in to help...speaking perfect English. I have a feeling that the video of me trying to get in is going to make their dumbest visitors video for the holiday party. To be fair to myself, there were 4 different slots or pass readers for ONE turn stall....and no signs as to which to use.
Once inside, there was complete serenity. Over 300 acres of gardens that were planned and built by order of the King in 1808. After strolling thru the Japanese gardens, I headed for the rose garden. There were literally 3 rose blooms in the entire garden...I guess its not rose season in Rio. After seeing the Rose garden in Portland, OR, this was a huge disappointment. But I pushed onward. There were numerous alleys of Bamboo that were incredible and easily towering 50-75 feet. There was a Medicinal Plant area, many of which I agreed with, but other plants were quite a stretch to be considered medicinal.
Japanese gardens:
By 3:00, I was hungry. I've found in only three days of travel, my eating schedule is completely off. I have a big breakfast, a snack around 3:00, wine around 6:00 and dinner around 8:00-9:00. I think it will get even worse when I arrive in Buenos Aires where they often go to dinner at 10:00 or later.
The Garden has a small cafe with outdoor seating. It was starting to rain again, so waiting it out under an umbrella sounded like a good idea. Based on the limited selection, I was debating between a ham and cheese sandwich or a brownie. I ordered the ham and cheese sandwich - "sorry no have". Cheese sandwich - "sorry no have". Pizza - "sorry no have". Me (perhaps exasperated, but learning patience each day in Rio) - what do you have left on the menu? Long story short, I had a hot dog and a Coke. As soon as I sat down, I had two snack buddies - squirrel monkeys. No other table had this issue, but during my entire "meal" I was watched within 3 feet or less by the squirrel monkeys. They look exactly like it sounds - moneys that are the size of squirrels and hair that mimics squirrels. I could hear many cameras snapping behind me, so I'm going to be in many tourist's home slide shows....the man who ate with the squirrel monkeys...or maybe the squirrel monkey whisperer.
Most every meal out in Rio thus far has been interrupted by unruly kids. I sort of like kids from afar, especially if out of ear shot. (Of course all of my friends who have kids - this does not apply to you, your's are kids that I know and they are very well behaved!) This snack was no exception. There was a child's birthday party in the Botanical Garden cafe. Lots of squeals of excitement, punctuated by frequent crying and whining.
Once the rain subsided, I loaded up my pockets and headed out for the second half of the Gardens.
I made my way to the cream de la cream (in my opinion)...the Orchid House. I took about 100 pictures in the Orchid House. I love Orchids - the colors, the size, the complete variety within one species, or is it genome or some other classification?...and to think I have a major in Biology!
There were a few places that reminded me of the UVa grounds with a series of columns covered in greenery. Other plants really reminded me of Hawaii. I think the gardeners bring many non-native plants to the Gardens, so perhaps the reason for my reflections. With the signs for each plant being in Portuguese, I'm not quite sure of their origin.
After several hours and a few hundred pictures in the Gardens, I was tired and ready to rest. I walked out and found a cab within about a block. Wow, I had walked quite a distance.
When back at the B&B, the office was closed, so couldn't validate my dinner choices or bar options. I had noticed several cafes along my walk to the lake and planned to stop at one of those for dinner. I walked several blocks around the B&B - lots of shops, people and activity - very different from Santa Teresa. Though cooler, the humidity was still heavy, so wearing a jacket along with jeans, I was starting to sweat.
I decided on a place - Galitos Grill about a block from the B&B. I was trying to find a specific bar in the same block, but it must have closed...or perhaps not open yet. I now like menus that I can understand enough to just point. I tell myself that the waiters like that too. We both remain in our respective language bubble. I sat at Galitos for about an 1.5 hour - having two glasses of wine by the glass, a bottle of water and a starter of grilled pork sausage. The world is happening just outside on the sidewalk. The sausage was very tasty! Smokey and delivered with hot sauce. I also learned today that Brazilians do not use much spice, so all of the spice added or delivered to the table is for foreigner's tastes.
There was a soccer game on the TV at the restaurant and I noticed that I was the only person in the restaurant facing away from the TV! Hopefully not an insult to the national past-time here.
I notice that the bar across the street is the one I was originally searching for, but the font made the name virtually unrecognizable. I had dinner and ended the night at To Nem Ai.
Hopefully for better weather on Sunday as I head to bed...
